
Class J)QG)J5 
Book. (] 34: . 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



uy- 



137 



THE PLAN BOOK SERIES 



A LITTLE JOURNEY 



TO 



Belgium and Denmark 



FOR HOME AND SCHOOL, INTERMEDIATE 
AND UPPER GRADES 



XoA 



BY 

MARIAN M. GEORGE 

h 



CHICAGO 
A. FLANAGAN COMPANY 



1]Y 
6f3f 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Cowes Received 

JUL 3 1902 

EIIQHT ENTRY 
O^XXa No 
COPY B. / 



Copyright, 1902 
By A. FLANAGAN COMPANY 



A Little Journey to 
Belgium. 

i Our journey this month will be to the 

M**, "land of the wooden shoe/' the very 
*SEJfl^ tiniest country of all Europe. Looking 
"•3?"^ ** on our map we find it wedged in between 
France, Germany, and Holland, but with its northern 
and northwestern coasts washed by the waters of the 
North Sea. Its greatest breadth east and west is one 
hundred and sixty miles. Its greatest length is one 
hundred and fifteen miles. 

But though it has an area of only 11,323 square 
miles, it has a population of nearly seven millions, 
which makes it the most densely populated country of 
Europe. 

In some parts of the country the people are like bees 
in a swarm. One wonders how they all get a living. 
The houses are scattered so thickly over the country, 
and the towns are so close together, that it seems like 
one city with numberless suburbs. 

The lowlands of Belgium strongly resemble Holland, 
Here we have beautiful green fields and gardens sepa- 
rated by canals and ditches. Huge windmills, gaily 
painted, are as active in draining, pumping, grinding, 
sawing and pounding as though working for Holland. 

Besides agricultural pursuits, many of the people are 
largely engaged in making the earth yield up her store 
of coal and iron, for Belgium has a mining region that 
covers an area of 476 square miles. 



4 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

Manufacturing is also an important industry. Her 
table linen, fine and beautifully woven, is known the 
world over. Her woolen cloths are also of a very supe- 
rior quality, while in the manufacture of iron and 
steel, and of exquisite and dainty laces, this little 
country ranks high. 

Belgium is further noted for paper fabrics, straw 
bonnets, flax yarn, porcelain, and sugar refineries. 

Belgium has been called the "workshop of Europe," 
and when we travel from town to town and note 
the factories everywhere rearing their smoke stacks to 
the sky and filling the air with the din of their machin- 
ery, we are ready to accept the name. It has good 
harbors at Antwerp and Ostend that enable it to ship 
its products and manufactures to other countries. 

Huge sea canals also enter the land, and railroads 
form a net-work across the country, so that every sec- 
tion of this little beehive of a country can get its goods 
to market. This keeps the commerce of Belgium in a 
very prosperous condition. Trade is chiefly with 
France, Holland, Germany, Russia and the United 
States. 

ANTWERP. 

Our first glimpse of Belgian life comes to us at Ant- 
werp. Some of the great steamship lines from New 
York have their European terminus there, and it is one 
of the most important ports on the continent. The 
city is situated about sixty miles from the sea on the 
Scheldt River. 

As our boat takes its winding way up the river, we see 
the airy spire of the Antwerp Cathedral rising afar off 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 5 

before us. By and by, the city appears, and soon we 
glide along the spacious piers and docks, and the tall, 
red-tiled houses, while, a few hundred yards farther, the 
spire of the cathedral rises to give us a welcome. 
Across the level stretches of smiling country we seethe 
red roofs of houses and pointed-steeples through screens 
of trees. Here and there is an old windmill on wooden 
stilts, and a canal with red-sailed green and black 
painted barges passing to and fro upon its quiet 
waters. 




QUAYS OF ANTWERP. 



There are forests of masts at the docks, steamers 
from many nations unloading or anchored in the river. 



6 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

Its splendid quays are fairly crowded with steam f 
coming and going. 

The name Antwerp means "on the wharf/' 3 

wharf is certainly an important part of the cit> 

But active as the place is, it gives us no idea of 
what it was three hundred years ago. Then thousands 
of vessels floated in its harbor and more than five hun- 
dred arrived and departed every day. Merchants came 
to this city from all parts of Europe, and more than one 
thousand foreign firms were rivals in the trade of the 
port. 

SIGHTS AND SCENES ABOUT ANTWERP. 

Antwerp was a city as early as the eighth century. 
It rose in power until the sixteenth century, when it 
was recognized as the center of European trade. It 
then had a population of over two hundred thousand. 

In those early days trade was a very different thing 
from what it is in this twentieth century. A vessel 
loaded with goods was of far more value. Then the seas 
were' full of pirates, — sea robbers, who were eagerly 
watching for a chance to wreck the richest vessels. A 
vessel could not make a long journey in a few days. 
Then it took weeks or months, all depending on a fair 
or foul wind. 

Then there were no steam cars, no telegraphs, no 
cables. Orders must be sent by a trusty messenger 
either by boat or horse back. The world was not so 
full of people then as it is now, and a population of 
two hundred thousand had a greater significance than 
it has today. 

When Napoleon seized Belgium in his iron grip, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 7 

Antwerp was almost dead. It was choked to death 
by the silt that had lodged in its chief harbor, the 
mouth of the Scheldt River. Navigation was impos- 
sible for any but very small boats. Its population had 
dwindled to forty thousand. Napoleon's eagle eye at 
once saw the great possibilities for Antwerp. He 
ordered the river dredged so that large vessels 
could approach the town. Thus Antwerp was restored 
to commercial importance, and to-day it ranks as 
head of all the continental European ports, and has 
a population of nearly 300,000. Its most important 
industries are sugar refining, distilling, lace making 
and ship building. 

From the ship's peak and the City Hall we see the 
national flag flying. Its stripes are of red, yellow and 
black, placed perpendicularly beside each other. The 




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CITY HALL AND SQUARE, ANTWERP. 



8 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

Belgian national symbol is the standing lion of Bra- 
bant, with the national motto"Union makes strength," 
which one sees on all the coins. < 

Let us walk over to the great square of Antwerp. 
One side of it is filled by the City Hall. To the right 
rise quaint and massive old buildings, which have 
stood for hundreds of years. They will last for 
hundreds of years to come, probably. They were the 
old guild halls of trades unions, once so powerful here. 

In this square is a huge bronze image of the pros- 
trate giant from which some Belgians claim Antwerp 
gets its name. This is the way the story runs: "Long 
ago there was a giant who had his castle by the 
Scheldt River and laid heavy toll upon all ships and 
captains passing his castle. 

The men who would not pay had their hands cut 
off and thrown into the river. From the giant's custom 
of casting hands (hand werpen) into the river, Ant- 
werp got its name. 

The young hero Brabo, having attacked the castle 
and killed the giant, cut off his big hand. Here, in 
bronze, he stands to-day, victorious, holding in his right 
hand the giant's hand, and about to fling it into the 
Scheldt. 

Aloft, on a huge rockery, grouped on which are 
marine monsters, mermaids hold above their weed- 
robed heads ancient prowed boats, whereon rests 
a castle with four towers. On top of all is Brabo, the 
hero of all the small boys of the place." 

Antwerp is one of the most picturesque of cities. 
The streets are crooked, irregular, and lined with mag- 
nificent trees, stately old houses, magnificent public 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. \) 

buildings, museums and art galleries. Antwerp is rich 
in sculpture and paintings, especially those of artists 
who lived or worked in Belgium and depicted Flemish 
life. A painting by one of these old Flemish masters 
has an immense value, especially if it bears the name 
Rubens, or Van Dyck, or Memling. 

Antwerp has the largest and most beautiful cathe- 
dral in all Belgium. It was begun the middle of 
the fourteenth century and finished about one hun- 








ANTWERP CATHEDRAL. 



10 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

dred and fifty years later. It is five hundred feet long, 
two hundred and forty feet wide, and has five aisles. 
Its chief attraction is its magnificent spire of stone and 
iron that rises to a height of four hundred and two feet. 
So delicate and exquisite is the carving of this spire that 
Napoleon compared it to Mechlin lace. 

The cathedral has a chime of ninety-nine bells. The 
largest bell is so heavy that it takes a number of men 
to ring it. Every one who visits Antwerp comes to 




DESCENT FROM THE CROSS, ANTWERP 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 11 

this cathedral to see the famous pictures that adorn 
its walls. The finest of these is the " Descent from the 
Cross/' by Rubens. 

This picture represents the lifeless body of Christ 
falling from the cross into the arms of his attendants. 
This is thought to be the masterpiece of Rubens, but 
there are others almost as famous. One of these is 
"The Elevation of the Cross." It shows our Savior nail- 
ed to a tree which the Roman soldiers are raising to plant 
in the earth. The limbs are streaming with blood, and 
the body hangs with all its weight on the nails. The 
face and form are as life-like as that of a living man, and 
the expression of suffering on the face so real that 
those who look upon it always turn away with sad- 
dened, serious faces. 

When Napoleon took the city he carried these pic- 
tures to Paris, but after he was overthrown they were 
returned to Antwerp. 

Belgium is the land of Rubens, and Antwerp was his 
home and the treasure house of his triumphs of art. 
His house, workshop and garden may still be seen, 
not far from the cathedral, looking much as he left 
them two hundred and fifty-three years ago. 

One is awakened the first morning of a stay in Ant- 
werp by the sound of many bells and voices under his 
windows. They will not be quiet and let one have another 
nap. The traveller usually gives up after an effort, 
leaves his comfortable feather bed and goes to the win- 
dow for a breath of fresh morning air, or perhaps to 
see what all the commotion is about. 

The scene upon which he looks is novel, and one 
which astonishes him beyond measure. The square 



12 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

and streets are full of peasants, with carts and dogs. The 
carts are full of milk cans, vegetables, wood, crockery, 
or other articles for sale. 

To numbers of the carts are harnessed huge dogs, one, 
two, three, four or five, depending upon the load. The 
owner usually walks beside the cart, though at times 
he rides. Sometimes he pushes the cart from behind, 
and so assists the dog over the hard places. Some- 
times he helps the dog to pull the load. Occasionally 
a woman helps the dog to draw the cart, and a lazy- 
looking man, probably her husband or son, remains 
comfortably seated inside. Indeed, there seem to 
be as many or more women with carts than men. 
And such odd looking women, with brown faces, bare 
heads, short skirts and wooden shoes. 

The first thing in the morning comes, not the milk 
man, but the milk girl, with her gay, green little cart, 
to leave the milk supply for the day. Milk is not car- 
ried about in tin cans, or in bottles, as in our own 
country, but instead in shining brass cans, resting care- 
fully on beds of straw. 

The little milk girl in her short blue skirt, bright 
waist, and wooden shoes, makes a very pretty picture. 
She is bareheaded winter and summer. Her shoes are 
many times too large for her, and drop first at heel, 
then at the toe, so that every step is accompanied by 
a click, clack, click, clack, as she guides her dogs on 
her daily route. 

This little milkmaid and her noble dogs remind us 
of the beautiful story of "The Dog of Flanders," 
which we read as the ship brought us to Belgian shores. 
How well it has described the lives of the poor peas- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



13 



ants, and how much it has helped us to understand 
them, and the life they lead in this, to us, strange new 
country! 




MILK WAGON AND DOGS. 



The dog is used everywhere as a beast of burden. 
It takes the place of the donkey in Italy. The tasks 
it performs are light, almost too light for a horse, and 
there is little grazing land in Belgium. 

Only the wealthy people have horses. These are 
huge animals, and too expensive for the poor peasant 
to buy and feed. 

The dogs are patient, hard working fellows and very 
useful to their masters, but it is not always easy to 



14 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



control them. Sometimes they forget their work and 
dignity and give chase to stray chickens, rabbits or 
other dogs, regardless of the consequences to the 
wagons to which they are harnessed. 




MORNING MARKET. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 15 

When they meet in the market place, where they 
have drawn their milk and vegetable carts, they make 
the air ring with their howling and barking. 

Sometimes, when the roving pedler enters a house to 
sell his wares, the dogs that draw his cart get into a 
fight with the dogs belonging to the home or neighbor- 
hood. The owner is then obliged to leave very quickly 
without making a bargain, and restore peace and 
order. 

The laws of the country forbid cruelty to these 
dumb animals. Dogs below a certain size or age can 
not be used as beasts of burden. 

A walk to the docks brings us near to the fish 
market. 

"Out of this market pours a motley crowd, — men 
in blue jerseys, men in red jerkins,men in shirt sleeves, 
little lads in sailor clothes with bright yellow sabots, 
women with blue stockings and yellow sabots, or yel- 
low stockings and black sabots, or black shoes and 
pink stockings, women in three-cornered shawls, 
women in long black cloaks." 

The people remind us of the Dutch, and speak a 
language that is much like that of the Hollander. 
THE COUNTRY. 

Belgium to the west and northwest is as flat and 
dull as Holland. It cannot boast of beautiful scenery. 
There are no mountains or hills or valleys. The land 
is so low that the water, even in summer, is only a few 
feet below the surface. In winter it covers large tracts 
of the land. 

Dikes and sand dunes protect the country from sea 
and rivers. Canals cross the lowlands in every direc- 



16 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

tion. They drain the land and serve the purpose of 
fences and roadways. There are no swift, rushing 
streams or noisy brooks, and since there are no streams 
to turn the mills, the wind is used instead. 

The long arms of the Dutch windmill mingle with 
the poplars wherever one looks. The upper part of 
the mill is a square wooden structure which can be 
turned around so as to catch the wind; the lower part 
is circular and stationary, and is made of brick. 
When working, the arms are covered with canvas. 

When a good breeze is blowing and the mill is under 
full sail, the great arms go about at a terrific rate. 
Many of the larger mills have a boiler attached, so that, 
when the wind fails, steam is used to turn the mill. 
The grain is ground in these mills. 

The public roads are excellent. They are usually 
made of granite blocks, such as we use to pave the 
streets of cities in the States. On each side of the 
road is a deep,wide ditch filled with water. The roads 
are better for walking than driving. So the traveller 
in a hurry is apt to be well jolted. 

Along the country roads we see many amusing 
scenes. Sometime we meet a little cart drawn by two 
dogs, galloping to town. In the cart are seated a 
couple, taking their ease. Sometimes there are three 
dogs yoked abreast to a single vehicle. 

One occasionally sees a horse and dog yoked to- 
gether, pulling a load of grain; or a dog and man in a 
w r ayside field, hauling a harrow. At times a woman 
assists the dog with his load. 

The Belgians are fine farmers and more than half 
the people are engaged in agriculture. The chief prod- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 17 

ucts besides live stock are grain, flax, hemp, fruit, 
and sugar beets. Rich crops of corn, wheat, rye and 
oats are raised. The Flemish flax is said to be the 
best in the world. 

So fertile is this low section that it is often called 
the Garden of Europe. Indeed, the farms seem 
much more like big gardens than the farms to which 
we are accustomed. They do not usually contain more 
than two or three acres, and often not more than one. 

Every foot of soil is tilled with the utmost care. 
With the first whisper of spring, the tiny farms are 
carefully planted with the early spring vegetables. In 
a very short time, these are ready for market; then the 
ground is quickly filled with seeds for the summer veg- 
etables, and these, in turn, give place to autumn crops. 
Thus, frequently, a small plot of ground is made to pro- 
duce crop after crop, in the same season, in a way that 
would amaze our farmers. 

If there is a tiny strip to spare for a grass plot, the 
farmer turns his cows to graze upon it. To keep the 
cows from straying to any other part of the little farm 
the farmer sends one of his children to watch and guide 
them. A rope is attached to the beast's horns and the 
child holds the rope. Sometimes two or three cows are 
fastened to the same rope. 

The shepherd must also remain with his sheep con- 
stantly, to keep them from straying, or falling into the 

water. 

The Belgian farmer, as in the olden days, still con- 
tinues to use old-fashioned tools and hand labor. This 
is partly because farms are so small that there is no 
room for the great modern farm implements. 



18 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



Here, as in Holland, it is a common sight to see girls 
and women working in the fields from sunrise to sun- 
set, ploughing, digging, planting, sowing and reaping 
in short, doing all kinds of the hardest farm work. 









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FLEMISH DRAUGHT HORSES. 



Children often carry the farm produce to market, or to 
their customers, in the* gayest of little green carts, 
drawn by beautiful, intelligent dogs. 

A drive through the country shows us neat, white- 
washed dwellings, trim fields, and orchards in blossom. 
The road is bordered with trees. The stone cottages 
of the farmers are surrounded with large apple orchards 
hedged in by box, holly or hawthorn. 

The gardens are gay with flowers that will later be 
taken to Ghent. The houses are of stone, one story high, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 19 

and roofed with red tile or thatch. They usually 
contain four rooms, one for dining, one for the dairy 
and preparing food for the cattle, and the others for 
sleeping rooms. 

The walls of the houses are white-washed; the furni- 
ture is of oak, and it fairly shines with the rubbings 
and scrubbings it has received. The kitchen utensils 
of brass and tin are as clean as hands can make them- 

At the early hour of four in the morning, both men 
and women are at work in the fields. Their working 
hours are so long that they have to eat five times a day. 
Their food is of the simplest, coarsest kind — coffee and 
black rye bread for breakfast; soup, vegetables, cheese 
and milk or buttermilk is the fare for other meals. 
Little meat is used among the poor. 

If the services of the farmer's wife and children are 
not required in the fields, they assist in other ways. 
The wife and grown daughter do lace work, or spin flax. 
The smaller children watch the cows, sheep, goats or 
fowls, or bring up hares for the market. 

The Belgian hare industry is an important one and 
has been introduced into our own country. The Bel- 
gian hares or rabbits have been imported to the States 
in large numbers. From Ostend alone there come to 
us one million two hundred thousand hares every year. 
The skins of these animals are used for making hats. 

The farm laborer does not lead an easy or pleasant 
life. He works harder than most men. Often he has 
no plough and tills the ground with a spade. 

In the evening, after his day's work is done, he hob- 
bles home in his clumsy wooden shoes that "clatter 
clatter" loudly on the hard country roads. These 



20 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



wooden shoes are worn as much in Belgium as in Hol- 
land and rural France. Indeed, we are every day 
reminded that Belgium is really the "land of the 
wooden shoe." 




WOMAN'S HEADDRESS. 

GHENT. 

About thirty-one miles from Antwerp lies another 
old Flemish town, Ghent, the capital of Flanders. 
Like Antwerp it has a rich historical past. 

Its dark and narrow streets, its lofty houses, fine 
Gothic buildings, vast Cathedrals, and town halls speak 
eloquently of a rich past ; while the life on the canals, 
its excellent harbors, fine shipping facilities and 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



21 



the hum of factories tell of the brave effort being made 
to hold a place in the present century. 

Many canals and branches of rivers form a network 
about the city, which is divided into twenty-six islands 
connected by nearly three hundred bridges. Although, 
at the present day, it manufactures considerable lace 
and linen goods, and one linen factory alone employs 
three thousand persons, yet this is as nothing when 
compared to the days when Ghent was the capital of 
old Flanders, the rival of Bruges, the richest city of all 
Europe. 




FLOWER MARKET. 



22 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

We wander about the pleasant, quiet streets,visit the 
fine esplanade, where a flower market is held on Sun- 
day morning, the beautiful Botanical Garden, one of 
the finest in Europe, well kept gardens, and the sub- 
stantial quays lined with elegant buildings that make 
this city so attractive. 

Yet the greatest charm of the place centers about 
the old buildings, whose very stones breathe of the 
past, of heroes and knights. Chief of all is the old 
belfry, 375 ft. high, from the top of which gleams the 
"Golden Dragon." 

Tradition has it that this Golden Dragon was taken 
from the Church of St. Sophia, at Constantinople, in 
one of the Crusades, and placed on the spire of the 
Belfry of Bruges. Do you know the meaning of the 
word Crusades ? Did you ever read of the Crusaders 
of old, or that wonderful story of the Children's Crusade, 
of which Longfellow and others have written ? 

During a conflict between the rival cities, Ghent 
was victorious and took from the belfry of Bruges, as 
a trophy, this Golden Dragon, carrying it to Ghent. 
There it was placed on their belfry,where it is still do- 
ing duty. 

The belfry of Ghent has a chime of forty-four bells. 
One of these bells has been given the name "Roland." 
The people of Belgium speak of it as though it were a 
person. Indeed, they regard it as a hero, for it has 
tolled and pealed for all the sad and joyous events that 
have made the history of this famous old town. 

Upon the bell itself is engraved this inscription, 
"My name is Roland; when I toll there is fire, and 
when I ring there is victory in the land." 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 23 

When Charles V. of Spain conquered this land after 
many a hard struggle, made more difficult by the 
warnings given by Roland, he so hated this bell that 
he ordered the tongue cut out. 

Longfellow, in the "Belfry of Bruges," speaks thus: 

"Till the bell of Ghent responded o'er Jagoon and dyke of sand, 
I am Roland! I am Roland! there is victory in the land." 

Throughout Flanders the great town halls with lofty 
towers and spires stand for the wealth and power that 
once controlled the Flemish towns. 

At first the governors of Flanders, appointed by the 
kings of France, were called Foresters; afterward the 
title was changed to that of Count. These Counts, 
who wasted money in wars, in extravagant living, in 
building castles, were very glad to grant privileges in 
exchange for gold to their subjects, who were piling 
up money by manufacture and commerce. As the 
nobles grew poorer and poorer, the common people 
prospered. They worked hard in their fields growing 
flax and in their factories making cloth, so that 
their products commanded the highest prices at home 
and abroad. They accumulated riches and power 
and independence. 

This they showed by building fine public halls, 
which were truly splendid, and hanging great bells .in 
the lofty towers to summon the people for meeting 
and council. Thus once they stood for municipal and 
commercial power. Today they are but show places. 

Another object of great interest is the old Cathedral 
of St. Bavon. The exterior is not at all attractive, 
but so beautiful is the interior, that it is worth con- 
siderable trouble to examine it. St. Bavon is the 



24 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



largest Cathedral of Ghent, and is beautifully finished 
in black and white marble. It is very rich in paint- 
ings. Tourists travel many miles to visit this church 
with its priceless treasures. One of the masterpieces 
is "The Adoration of the Lamb/' painted by two 
brothers, Jan and Hubert Van Eyck. 




MORNING IN THE VEGETABLE MARKET. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 25 

Another very interesting place to visit in this quaint 
old town is "The Grand Beguinage or Nunnery of the 
Beguines." This forms a little town by itself. Here 
are eighteen convents, a church, and about seven 
hundred nuns, who are robed in black; but during 
services in the church they wear white veils, which 
are removed as they leave the church. 

The majority of the Belgians are Roman Catholics. 
There are over 1500 convents with nearly 25,000 in- 
mates, in this little country. 

BRUGES. 

Let us leave delightful Ghent, and make our way to 
Bruges, now an inland city, eight miles from the ocean, 
but connected with it by several canals. 

Bruges gets its name, meaning bridges, from the nu- 
merous bridges, about fifty-four, which cross the 
canals. 

As we approach this city and notice canals cutting 
the meadows, canals crossing and re-crossing the streets, 
gay, red and yellow windmills ready for action, moss 
grown canal boats and dog carts, and odd costumes all 
about us, we are reminded of Holland. 

Let us wander about this quiet, quaint, sleepy old 
town that has a population of less than fifty thousand. 
We find fine old streets with great empty warehouses; 
cathedrals and picture galleries richly adorned with 
fine art treasures; town halls with towers and spires 
and bells; roomy old dwelling houses with dormer win- 
dows set in the high steep roofs,and with ornamental and 
dated gables all of which tell us of old time-grandeur. 
And as we notice the grass growing undisturbed be- 



26 • A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

tween the paving stones, we marvel that this grass-grown 
city was once one of the chief commercial cities of the 
world, with a population of over two hundred thousand. 

For more than three hundred years, Bruges was the 
center market for all Europe north of the Alps. It was 
then a seaport. Its harbor was filled with vessels from 
many ports. Merchants brought silks from Florence; 
wines from Spain and Italy; fruits from the Mediter- 
ranean; rich furs from the Baltic; costly treasures of 
pearls and silk from India; and beautiful fabrics from 
Arabia. These they were eager to exchange for the fine 
linen and choice woolen goods, the work of the best 
spinners and weavers in the world. 

The citizens of Bruges were rich, proud and inde- 
pendent, and not only were they richly dressed, but 
their wives were clothed like princesses, in the finest 
of velvet and cloth, richly embroidered with gold and 
trimmings of fur. 

In 1351, the burgomasters of Bruges and Ghent were 
summoned to Paris to pay homage to King John. 
They were received with great pomp and honor and 
invited to a feast. When about to take their 
seats at the table, they noticed that no cushions had 
been provided for them, the Burgomasters of the great- 
est cities, not only of Flanders, but of the world. Such 
an indignity must not pass by unrebuked. They 
folded their beautiful and richly embroidered cloaks 
and used them as cushions to sit upon. After the fes- 
tival was over, they left the table, leaving their cloaks 
folded on the seats. And when told that they had for- 
gotten their cloaks, the Burgomaster of Bruges an- 
swered, in his grandest manner, " We Flemings 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 27 

are not in the habit of carrying away our cushions." 

But the pride and the vainglory of those olden days 
have departed, and nothing is left to tell the tale but 
ancient structures and works of art. It is said that to- 
day about one-third of the inhabitants are paupers. 
From the number of children begging in the streets, 
one judges that this is true. Many of these children 
have been trained to beg by parents who are too 
lazy to work. 

There is an interesting old cathedral in Bruges 
called St. Sauveur, adorned with many fine paintings. 
Near this cathedral is the church of Notre Dame, with a 
spire 390 feet high. Here is a small statue of the Virgin 
and child that attracts much attention, as it is said to 
be the work of Michael Angelo. There is also a mag- 
nificent monument of Charles 1 the Bold and his daugh- 
ter Mary, wife of the Emperor Maximilian. 

On market day the square is filled with country peo- 
ple, with carts, donkeys and dogs, The carts 
are long and slender, and are drawn by one horse 
hitched far ahead. The women wear long, black cloaks 
with hoods, and every one wears wooden shoes. 

About the old market place stands the famous old 
"Belfry of Bruges." This belfry was built in the four- 
teenth century. It is 350 feet high and has a set of 
forty-eight bells, which weigh from two up to eleven 
thousand pounds. 

In the olden days the chief mission of these bells 
was to sound an alarm in times of danger. To-day 
their work is to give out inspiring music. 

These chimes are among the best in Europe. Their 
tones vary from the lightest, daintiest, sweetest bird- 



28 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

like notes to the heaviest, deepest thundering bass. 
Every fifteen minutes the chimes ring out — now a sad, 
solemn hymn, and next perhaps joyous music which 
makes our feet fairly itch to keep step with it. 




TOWER WOMAN. 



We can see these bells and get a view from the top 
of the belfry, by giving the door-keeper a franc. So 
we pay our fee and soon stand at the top of the old 
belfry. 

Belgium is a land of bells, and fine bells, too. The 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 29 

Belgians are said to be as fond of their chimes as the 
Dutch are of still water. One hears bells con- 
stantly, everywhere in the country. They are in the 
steeples of town halls as well as in churches, and in some 
places ring every seven and a half minutes. The bells 
of Bruges ring every quarter hour for a minute, and at 
the end of the hour, try a tune. 

Machinery grinds out the tune, which is changed once 
a year. On Sundaj^s in cities a musician chosen by the 
town plays the chimes. Keys are used for this pur- 
pose, and the work is very difficult. It is of the Belfry 
of Bruges that Longfellow wrote — 

In the market-place of Bruges, 

Stands the belfry old and brown; 
Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, 

Still it watches o'er the town. 

As the summer morn was breaking, 

On that lofty tower I stood, 
And the world threw off the darkness 

Like the weeds of widowhood. 

Thick with towns and hamlets studded 

And with streams and vapors gray, 
Like a shield embossed with silver, 

Round and vast the landscape lay. 



Not a sound rose from the city, 
At that early morning hour 

But I heard a heart of iron 
Beating in the ancient tower. 

* * * * 

Then most musical and solemn, 
Bringing back the olden times, 



30 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

With their strange unearthly changes 
Rang the melancholy chimes, 

Like the psalms from some old cloister, 
When the nuns sing in the choir; 

And the great beli tolled among them 
Like the chanting of a friar. 

Visions of the days departed, 

Shadowy phantoms filled my brain; 

They who live in history only, 
Seemed to walk the earth again. 



I beheld the pageants splendid, 

That adorned those clays of old;<-._ 

Stately dames, like queens attended, 
Knights who bore the Fleece of Gold 

Lombard and Venetian merchants 



>-_»-_»j- 



With deep-laden argosies; 
Ministers from twenty nations; 
More than royal pomp and ease. 



I beheld the Flemish weavers, 
With Namur and Juliers bold, 

Marching homeward from the bloody 
Battle of the Spurs of Gold. 

Saw the fight at Minnewater, 

Saw the White Hoods moving west, 

Saw great Artevelde, victorious, 
Scale the Golden Dragon's nest. 

And again the whiskered Spaniard 
All the land with terror smote; 

And again the wild alarum 

Sounded from the tocsin's throat: 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

Till the bell of Ghent responded 
O'er lagoon and dike of sand, 

"I am Roland! I am Roland! 
There is victory in the land!" 

Then tbe sounds of drums aroused me, 

The awakened city's roar 
Chased the phantoms I had summoned 

Back into their graves once more. 

Hours had passed away like minutes, 

And before I was aware, 
Lo! the shadow of the belfry 

Crossed the sun-illumined square. 

OSTEND. 



31 




FISH SELLERS. 



From Bruges let us travel to Ostend, the most fash- 
ionable watering-place in Belgium. Here every sum- 
mer many Russians, Germans, French, and even the 



32 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

English bring their families to spend the warm months 
of July and August, to enjoy the beach, bathing and 
oysters. 

Throughout Europe these oysters are known. Though 
much smaller than ours, they are said to have a most- 
delicious flavor. They were originally brought from 
England and planted in the waters about Belgium. 
It is not the eysters, however, that delight the children, 
but the lovely sand. What a good time they have build- 
ing forts and castles and dykes that the sea washes 
away with the incoming tide ! 

Then the joy of paddling with feet bare, and trousers 
and skirts tucked up; they wish life one long summer 
holiday, and the earth all sand and water. 

Ostend is so low that it is protected by a sea wall, 
an immense structure of brick and stone, three miles 
long and over one hundred feet in width. This forms 
a delightful promenade for the many tourists who 
stop here before crossing to England: 

Ostend has a good harbor and a line of steamers 
connects it with Dover and London. This is but a 
short journey of sixty-eight miles, and takes about 
four hours. 

Once upon a time there was no water separating Eng- 
land from Belgium. One could have walked from one 
country to the other. But in the course of time the 
low plains of Europe sank, and the waters of the At- 
lantic rushed in and covered them, thus forming a bar- 
rier between England and the rest of Europe. 

So shallow is this water, that in many places it 
would be necessary to raise the bed of the sea hardly 
one hundred feet to make it dry land. Because 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 33 

the water is so shallow and the current so fierce, 
the English Channel and the Straits of Dover are noted 
for their roughness. Old travelers, who think nothing 
of crossing the Atlantic, dread this short voyage, for it 
is sure to be accompanied by that very unpleasant, 
and yet rarely dangerous malady — seasickness. 

The southern angle of Belgium is hilly and rich in 
forests and minerals. Many thousands of men are en- 
gaged here in mining. Coal and coke are among the 
leading exports. Belgium yields more fuel than any 
other country of Europe except England. 

About one-fifth of the country is covered with for- 
ests, that lie in the valley of the Meuse and the Arden- 
nes. The trees are mostly oak and hard wood trees. 
They furnish charcoal and large quantities of bark for 
tanning purposes. 

BRUSSELS. 

Brussels is not only the capital, but also the largest, 
most progressive, wide awake town of Belgium, with a 
population of 561 , 1 30. The city of Brussels stands part- 
ly on a hill, about 220 feet above sea level, and partly on 
a plain. It is divided into a lower town, which is the 
old, historic section, and into an upper or fashionable 
section. 

Once upon a time Brussels was protected by walls, 
which surrounded the city. But walled towns are out 
of style now, for in case of war the walls would be of no 
protection; so they have been changed into fine prome- 
nades lined with rows of beautiful shade trees. In 
the old or lower town, we find the narrow, crooked 
streets, with old houses and buildings, many of them 
bearing a date of the fourteenth century. 



34 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



35 



As one approaches Brussels the eye is attracted to 
the great golden dome of the Palais de Justice. This 
is a new building, and the largest in the world. It cov- 
ers 270,000 square feet and is surmounted by a marble 
tower 400 feet high. The golden dome caps the tower. 
This building cost ten millions of dollars. 

As the Palais de Justice stands on a hill, it is a con- 
spicuous object for miles around, especially the dome. 

The finest shops and buildings are to be found on 
Boulevard Auspach, that runs through the center of 
the city. This beautiful street, with its attractive shops 
and outdoor cafes, reminds us of Paris, and the fact 
that Brussels is often called "Little Paris." 




BOULEVARD AUSPACH, BRUSSELS. 



36 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

For two or three hours every morning between ten 
and one o'clock the boulevards are thronged with fash- 
ionable men, and women with their dogs, and children 
with nurses. 

Brussels shops are noted for elegance and attract 
shoppers from larger cities in other parts of Europe. 
Nowhere can one find more dainty and exquisite laces, 
fans, gloves, jewels, and clothing. The shop keepers 
are extremely polite and anxious to please customers. 

Perhaps the most interesting building in Brussels is 
the Hotel de Ville or City Hall. It is one of the most 
beautiful of the kind in Belgium. On the top of its 
tall pyramidal tower is a statue of St. Michael. 

The famous ball which occurred on the eve of the 
battle of Waterloo, was held in this hall. Lord Byron 
has told us of it in his poem "The Eve of Waterloo." 

In front of the hall is a square known as the Grand 
Place. It is one of the finest old squares in existence, 
and occupies an important place in Belgian history. 
It has been the scene of many a revolution and of 
much bloodshed. In 1568 twenty-five nobles were be- 
headed here by the order of the Duke of Alva. 

But the square is a quiet and peaceful place now, 
and on market days it is an interesting place to visit. 

In this place, once a week, between six and nine in 
the morning, the flower market is held. The air is then 
scented with the odors of lovely lilies and other 
flowers. 

The country people cultivate flowers for a livelihood 
and on the market days flock here in crowds to dispose 
of their produce. 

One of the most magnificent buildings in Brussels 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



37 



is its Bourse,or Stock Exchange, which cost two million 
dollars. Its elegant sculptures, statues and columns 
remind us of the Paris Opera House. 




THE BOURSE, BRUSSELS. 



The finest Cathedral is St. Gudule, built in 1270. It 
is famous for its many statues and painted windows 
and its magnificent pulpit. Like most of the pulpits 
of Belgium and Holland, it is of carved wood, but this 
one is of exceeding beauty. The center group repre- 
sents Adam and Eve as they are driven out of the 
garden of Eden; just above is Mary, the mother of 
Christ, crushing the serpent (always symbolical of evil) 
by means of the cross. 

Another object of interest is the Martyrs' Monu- 



38 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



ment, erected in 1838 to the memory of those who 
fought so valiantly in 1830 to free Belgium from 
Holland. 

This union, formed in 1814,was not liked by Belgium, 
but it was not until 1831 that the separation was 
effected. The Martyrs' Monument commemorates the 
battle that brought about the separation of these two 
little countries. 

Another recent historical monument is the Column 




PALACE OF THE KING. 



of Congress, erected in memory of the establishment 
of the present constitution, with Leopold I. as King of 
Belgium. This tall, stately Column is 147 feet high, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 39 

and is finished at the top by the statue of the king. 
Leopold I. died in 1865 and his remains were placed in 
the royal burial vault of St. Mary at Dacken. 

Leopold II. succeeded his father. Under his reign the 
country has enjoyed peace and prosperity. 

Near the park of Brussels stands the Royal Palace, 
the residence of the royal family of Belgium. It is 
not a beautiful building, but is furnished with elegance. 

Belgium is a kingdom. It is ruled by a king and 
two chambers, the senate and the chamber of repre- 
sentatives, both elected by the citizens. 

Leopold II. is much respected and beloved by the 
majority of his subjects. He is an intelligent, liberal, 
progressive sovereign. It would be hard to find 
in Europe a better governed nation than Belgium. 

The Mannekin Fountain is always an object of inter- 
est to travelers, and is a favorite with the Brussels 
people also. This is a statue which is dressed up in a 
fine costume on festival days. It is said to have eight 
different suits, one for each special festival. It has 
a servant appointed by the city officials, at a salary, 
and this servant attends to his statue master, when he 
finds a change of costume necessary. 

The country is noted for its lace trade. The lace 
made at Brussels, Mechlin and Bruges is famous. Before 
we leave the place we must visit the lace makers that 
make what is known as the Brussels lace. 

This is considered by many as the most beautiful 
lace made by hands. Some patterns are so delicate 
and intricate that it takes many years to complete a 
single piece. When finished, it is valued as high as 
five hundred dollars a yard. 



40 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

The lace workers of Europe work early and late and 
receive very small pay for their difficult labor. In 
order to protect the work from dust, these lace work- 
ers sit in very damp rooms. They strain their eyes 
so greatly from watching the fine threads as they 
weave them in and out, that they become blind when 
quite young. Yet many yards are bought and 
sold each year. 

This fine hand lace is made on pillows. Every one 
must have her own-pillow, for two people can not work 
on the same piece of lace. The pattern is marked out 
on the pillow wjth pins, and the worker winds the 
threads over and under, in and out and around among 
the pins, with infinite care and patience. 

Many kinds of threads are sometimes needed for 
one piece of lace. Sometimes this thread is almost as 
fine as cob web, and it takes weeks or months, or even 
years, to make a single piece of lace, or one lace 
garment. 

Many of the exquisite lace gowns worn by the very 
rich are made in poverty stricken homes, where the 
workers sit, in rooms as damp as cellars to do their 
work. 

While Brussels is a bright, cheerful, attractive place, 
it has its poor quarter as well as other cities. In 
these places we find people wretchedly housed and 
clothed. The children wander about dirty and ragged, 
and receive little attention from their parents. The 
mother has no time to spare for the little ones. She 
must toil all day at lace making to get money for bread. 
The father works at articles made of pasteboard, but 
his wages are too small to enable the family to live. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 41 

As soon as the children are old enough they too must 
begin to work. 

In the homes of the well-to-do there is usually 
a pleasant living apartment back of the reception 
and dining rooms. This is partly enclosed by 
glass, and banked with palms and growing plants. 
It has a tile floor, rugs, piano, lounges, easy 
chairs and tables. The houses are, many of them, rich 
in rare old china, fine paintings, carved furniture,hand- 
wrought iron and brasses. 

THE BELGIANS. 

On arriving in Belgium we hear the people speaking 
a strange tongue resembling Dutch, but called Flemish, 
and we conclude that this must be the native tongue. 
Yet we find later that only about half the population 
speak this language. 

French is the language of the country, in court and 
official circles, and is used by the majority of the 
people. 

In the southern part of the country the people are 
more like the French and use their language almost 
entirely. 

In northern Belgium the people are more like the 
Dutch and Germans, and speak Flemish. The true 
meaning of the word Flemish is " dialect of Flanders." 

Many centuries ago Flanders was an important 
territory, that included the provinces of East and 
West Flanders in Belgium, a small part of Holland, 
and a portion of France. 

For many years Flanders was most rich and prosper- 



42 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 43 

ous, and exerted considerable influence on commerce, 
literature and art. 

The people in some parts of Belgium dress like the 
Hollanders. The girls wear gaily embroidered bodices, 
blue or red skirts, buckled shoes, ear rings, necklaces, 
or quaint headdresses. This headdress consists of a 
helmet of gold, silver or other metal, a lace cap and a 
bonnet. 

The men and boys wear small caps, bright jackets, 
wide baggy trousers, black stockings, wooden shoes or 
shoes with buckles. The people in Brussels dress, 
look and act much like the people of Paris. 

The Belgian people are very polite, social, hospitable 
and ceremonious. At breakfast and on saying good 
night one must shake hands all around. Bowing is a 
serious and important ceremony, and there is a great 
deal of it. 

The people never seem to be in a hurry. They al- 
ways have time to stop and chat or to entertain 
friends. 

The Belgians love music. No company is complete 
without it. Each member of a family is usually taught 
to use some musical instrument. They have many 
musical clubs and contests, and the cities and towns are 
supplied with bands that furnish music in the parks on 
holidays. 

Art is much thought of, and Belgium is a country 
where many artists have originated. The " Winter 
Salon" in the King's Park is an annual event, and a 
most interesting one, to the visitor to Brussels, as well 
as to the citizen. 

It originated in this way. A Burgomaster of Brus- 



44 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

sels wanted money for the poor. So, when a heavy snow 
storm came, it brought a happy thought to him. 
He summoned all the sculptors of the city and 
their pupils and laid before them his plans. The park 
was turned over to them to decorate, and in a day or 
two was opened for the charity show. 

Crowds of people came out of curiosity, and this is 
what they found — snow tramps sleeping on benches, 
snow priests lounging about with books, snow police- 
man talking to snow nurserymaids on benches, while 
neglected snow babies cried. There were snow Punch 
and Judy shows, snow musicians, and snow animals. 
Statues of well known citizens were also to be seen, 
and even the King's effigy was there. 

Money poured in as the result of the entertainment, 
and every 3^ear since the artists of the city have 
given their time and talent to make a similar enter- 
tainment successful. 

The public schools of Belgium arefree,and are attended 
by children when quite young. They receive very careful 
instruction in the religion, history and geography of 
their own country. In the rest of the world they take 
but little interest. Very likely they think of the United 
States as a place famous for Indians and buffaloes. 
But touch on their own country, and they will readily 
tell you how Belgium has suffered from being an arena 
for the fights and quarrels of the rest of Europe. 

They hate the name of Philip II. of Spain,who brought 
so much trouble and rebellion to their country. They 
can tell you why monuments have been erected to 
Egmont and Horn, the heroes who were so cruelly 
executed by the Duke of Alva. They know all about 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



45 







o 

Y-, 

w 

o 
W 



46 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

the Austrian Rule. And they will refer you to Ant- 
werp, the largest sea-port of Belgium, for at least one 
good work of Europe's enemy, Napoleon. It is the 
harbor. 

Especial attention is paid to drawing. The children 
are allowed to draw pictures for an hour every day, 
and if any pupil shows talent in this direction, he is 
sure to receive help and encouragement. 

The girls in school wear black aprons to keep their 
dresses clean, and make them look like other pupils. 
This practice is intended to keep the pupils from con- 
trasting the clothes of the poor with those of the more 
richly dressed. 

Thursday afternoon is a half holiday, as in France, 
and this is the happiest day in the week for the 
school children. Often the teacher accompanies her 
pupils to the park and joins in the games, or sees that 
no harm comes to the small pupils. 

The children are taught from their very babyhood 
to be polite, obliging, and useful to those about them. 

AMUSEMENTS AND HOLIDAYS. 

Six days of the week the Belgian people work, and 
work hard, but the seventh they devote to their church 
and to amusements. Sunday morning is kept as with 
us. All attend church. But the afternoon is devoted 
to pleasure. It becomes a joyous holiday. In the 
summer, picnics and excursions are numerous. Whole 
families, not the children alone, as is so often the case 
here in America,but also father and mother, go together 
for a day's pleasure in the woods or on the river. 

The favorite holiday in Belgium as in Holland is "Ker- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 47 

mess." This is a great fair, that is held in summer at 
different places all over the country. Tents are erected 
for all sorts of shows and exhibitions; giants and dwarfs, 
skeletons and fat people, and many other curious freaks 
of nature may be seen for a few cents. A gypsy, telling 
fortunes, always draws a crowd about her tent. The 
shooting galleries and the circus draw both big and 
little boys, while the girls seek the swings and the 
merry-go-rounds. There are tents where all sorts of 
things are for sale; good things to eat and drink; but 
chief of all the dainties is ginger-bread. 

Ginger-bread is regarded by the children of Belgium 
and Holland just as the American child regards pop- 
corn, as a sweet to be devoured on all. festive occasions. 
Nowhere else will you see such quantities' of ginger- 
bread; as one traveller says, "it is for sale by the foot, 
yard, rod, pole or perch." It is shaped like every 
animal that ever came out of a Noah's ark. Ginger- 
bread baked in every known and unknown form is de- 
voured by the ton and by both native and tourist. 

The first of May is always celebrated with a festival, 
when the people flock out into the country to gather 
flowers and secure green boughs. 

Easter is celebrated by egg-giving, as in our own coun- 
try. 

On the Sunday before Whitsuntide the children get 
up very early in the morning. The one who is dressed 
first goes to the different bedrooms, knocks and calls 
out "Lazy Loon, sleepy head, lie abed ; don't get up 
till noon." The last member of the family to rise is 
required to give to the others a hot bun, which must be 
ready for this particular morning. 



48 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



St. Valentine's day is remembered too, and on that 
day the postman's bag bulges with missives, pretty or 




CHILDREN IN THE PARK. 



A LITTLE JOUKNEY TO BELGIUM. 49 

comici On April first the shop windows are full of 
fishes of many forms, colors and materials. Some are 
of papier-mache, others of chocolate,sugar, ginger-bread, 
ice, silver or porcelain. Every one sends fish to 
friends. 

At New Year's friends send New Year's cards 
to each other, or exchange visits and gifts; addresses 
or petitions are presented to the King, and decorations 
are dispensed by the government. 

Not many weeks after New Year's comes the carni- 
val, a season of mummeries, parties, street processions 
and fun. This festival lasts several days. The com- 
mon people disguise themselves in masks and fantastic 
costumes ; flowers and candy are thrown from balconies 
to streets and back again . Gay songs are sung and ridic- 
ulously dressed figures cut antics as they play. 

On Ash Wednesday all this gaiety is stopped. The 
people attend church in black or dark garments and 
leave the building with a heavj^ black cross stamped 
on their foreheads. This is worn twenty-four hours. 

Santa Claus or St. Nicholas is the patron saint of 
the children. He arrives on a white pony December 
6. The children provide turnips, carrots and hay for 
the good steed. If they have been good the hay and 
vegetables disappear from the basket and gifts and 
toys are left. Sometimes Saint Nicholas sends his 
presents in disguises or hidden in pumpkins, cabbages 
or vegetables of some kind. Sometimes a rod is sent 
in place of presents. 

All day during the 6th of December, children with 
dolls and drums parade the boulevards. To the poor 
alms are given, and to the servants, curious gingerbread 



50 A. LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

figures. For days before Christmas, the streets are 
crowded. The sidewalks are so narrow that they can- 
not accommodate the people. They overflow into the 
streets. 

At Christmas every house has its tree, or at least a 
branch of evergreen. The tree is lighted on Christmas 
eve, Christmas candles are burned and hymns are 
sung to the Christ child. 

On Christmas eve the bells clang everywhere, and 
long processions, headed by little children, go to mass. 
Children strew the streets with flowers and cut frag- 
ments of colored paper until the rough paving stones 
are covered with red, blue, green and white scraps. 

The children in the processions are of all ages, from 
the tiny child just able to sing, to young ladies. Some 
of the companies of girls are clad in blue, others in 
pink, lilac or white, but all bear some emblem or 
badge, or assist in bearing some shrine or crucifix or 
group of images, by grasping the ends of one of the 
hundreds of bright ribbons that are attached to the 
central figures. 

As they march, bands of music beat and blow their 
best. When the band ceases, the priests chant in deep 
voices, and they in turn are followed by the singing 
of children, arranged by schools. 

There are chariots, too, bearing gigantic crucifixes 
and images, chariots resplendent with a lavish display 
of cloths of gold and silver. 

But the prettiest sight of all is a beautiful little boy 
clad in a camel's hair garment, carrying a tiny cross, 
and leading a white lamb by a blue ribbon. He is 
the representative of John the Baptist. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 



51 




52 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

The peasants bare their heads reverently as this 
procession sweeps by, and watch and wait patiently in 
the cold, keen air, for the last of the procession. And 
by and by it comes, in the form of a dignitary of the 
church. 

He is as splendid as jewels and gold embroidery and 
rare old lace can make him. He walks beneath a 
gorgeous baldaquin of gold and purple, and is sur- 
rounded by chanting priests and preceded by scarlet 
capped and white robed acolytes. They are swinging 
weighty censers under a canopy of state, that is borne 
over his head by four strong men. 

It is a magnificent procession, and one never to be 
forgotten by a visitor to Belgium. 

WATERLOO. 

Belgium's central position has made it the "Battle- 
field of Europe." It has been the object of many wars, 
belonging to Austria, Spain, France and Holland. 
Within its borders the nations of Europe have fought 
out their quarrels for hundreds of years. 

Just below Brussels lies Waterloo, a beautiful plain, 
where one of the decisive battles of the world was 
fought in 1815. 

"In that world's earthquake, Waterloo," the allied 
forces of Great Britain, Prussia and the Netherlands, 
under command of Wellington and Blucher, united to 
overthrow Napoleon and France. 

For twenty years this monarch had kept all Europe 
in a turmoil of feverish anxiety by his plans and schemes 
to get control of all Europe, and thus found the greatest 
of all earthly empires, an empire that should far surpass 
anything that the world had ever known. So great 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 53 

was his ambition that lives were nothing to him. His 
wonderful force of character, that had raised him from a 
poor Corsican boy to be head of the great French na- 
tion, his military skill, and the compelling way that 
he had of making men serve him, made all Europe fear 
his power, and tremble. But here on the plains of 
Waterloo Napoleon lost all, and the French army was 
defeated and humiliated. 

After this battle, France was made to pay about one 
hundred and forty millions of dollars for the expenses of 
the war. And all the beautiful works of art and liter- 
ature that Napoleon had seized were restored to their 
rightful countries and owners. It had been Napoleon's 
custom, when he conquered a place, to seize the works 
of art and send them to Paris. 

Less than an hour's ride by train takes us to the bat- 
tlefield, that is now covered with green or cultivated by 
the thrifty Belgian farmers. There is little to remind 
one that a terrific struggle took place here, except a 
hill thrown up in the center of the field as a monument. 

On the top of this hill is a great lion, the emblem of 
Belgium. It was molded from the cannon left upon 
the field of Waterloo, and marks the spot where the 
Prince of Orange fell. Another monument marks the 
spot where the Prussian forces fell, and another the 
memory of the brave German soldiers who perished in 
this fight. 

The battle of Waterloo was dearly won. The French 
loss was 18,500 killed and wounded, and that of the 
Opposing armies 16,000. But the victory put an end 
forever to the power of Napoleon, and restored peace 
to the world. 



54 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 

MARSENET OR ALTENBERQ. 

On the boundary line between Prussia and the 
Netherlands lies the smallest country in Europe. It is 
Marsenet or Altenberg, a territory governed by the 
Belgians and Prussians together. 

The district contains but two and a half square miles. 
The territory was declared independent in 1815 to set- 
tle the dispute when the boundary line was fixed be- 
tween Germany and Belgium. Both countries wanted 
the country for its rich zinc mines. It now pays a tax 
to each of them. 

The village is situated in a beautiful valley, which 
boasts a lake and the ruins of an old castle. The peo- 
ple are well to do, and engage principally in zinc min- 
ing and hat making. 



A Little Journey to Denmark 

AND HER COLONIAL POSSESSIONS. 



Denmark now occupies a very small and insignificant 
part of the map of Europe, but the time was when it 
ranked among the most important and powerful na- 
tions of the north. 

The Danes have always loved the sea, and are among 
the finest and most daring seamen of the world. Great 
numbers of them serve as sailors on British and other 
foreign vessels. Their love of adventure has led them 
to explore many foreign lands, and to plant the Danish 
flag in some of them. 

Denmark's dominion at one time extended over Nor- 
way, Sweden, England, and a part of Germany. But she 
has suffered from many wars and defeats, and these 
countries have been taken away from her. Her soldiers 
were not lacking in bravery, but the armies of so small 
a nation could not compete with the greater ones of 
Europe. 

Of her colonial possessions only Greenland, the 
Faroe Islands, the West India Islands, Santa Cruz, St. 
John, St. Thomas, and Iceland remain. Iceland is a 
dependency. 

Denmark proper now consists of the northern part 
of the peninsula of Jutland and a number of outlying 
islands. The principal ones lie to the east between 
Jutland and Sweden, and almost fill the entrance to 
the Baltic Sea. 



56 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 

The peninsula contains the greatest area of territory, 
but the islands are the most important part of the 
Kingdom. The country is almost as flat as Holland. 
There are no mountains. Only the islands of Denmark 
and the southeastern part of the peninsula are fertile 
and productive. 

The western coast is low and shut in by sand bars. 
There are no good harbors. Denmark has but one im- 
portant seaport with a harbor that admits large ships. 
That one is Copenhagen on Zealand Island. 

To reach this port ships sail about the peninsula into 
the sound which separates the island of Zealand from 
Sweden, or go by way of the German canal, through 
the southern part of the peninsula. 

JUTLAND. 

The peninsula of Jutland extends north from the 
northern boundary of the German Empire to Skagen. 
Here it ends in a low, barren, sandy point. The waters 
at this point take the name of Skagerack. 

This part of the coast is dreaded by the sailors be- 
cause of the fierce storms ships often encounter there. 
So many vessels were formerly lost on this point of 
land that the coast at times was strewn with the 
wrecks. A light house now stands on the point to warn 
seamen of their danger. 

Germany has recently built a canal across the south- 
ern part of the peninsula, that will make the long, 
dangerous voyage around the peninsula unnecessary 
for many ships. 

Let us stop at Jutland first. We can land at Esb- 
jerg on the western coast,and take a run across and up 
through the northern country by rail. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 57 

Esbjerg is a busy town, with a fine new harbor from 
which Danish farm produce is exported to England. 
It has a number of large factories and fine homes, but 
is not an interesting place, and we do not remain long. 

FANO. 

A short sail in a small steamboat takes us to the 
little island of Fano, near by. Fano is one of the few 
places that cling to ancient habits and customs. The 
people there live very much as they did hundreds of 
years ago, and for that reason possess an unusual in- 
terest to travellers. 




FANO GIRLS. 



Nordby on Fano is a quaint fishing town, with nar- 
row streets, low red houses and small fenced gardens. 

Its women wear a peculiar costume; a full dark- 
colored skirt with a broad green border, a tight fitting 



58 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 

bodice and a many colored kerchief around the head. 
They are also given to wearing numbers of skirts of 
different colors that give them a bulky appearance. 

Crossing the island to the North Sea we find great 
stretches of sand hills covered with wrack-grass. 
These tracts are called downs. At first we see no 
houses, but by and by the ridge of a house appears 
from beyond the hillocks, then a tower, a building,and 
finally a castle. Beyond this building loom others , 
rows of handsome homes and villas. 

The men of the island are seamen or fishermen, and 
the women do the work of the fields and households. 
But while willing to work hard, they are not willing to 
spoil their fine complexions! And so, to protect them- 
selves from the wind and sun, they wear black face 
coverings. The same custom is followed at Skagen and 
at Agger, other islands of Denmark. 

We have arrived at Fano Nardsobad, the North Sea 
watering place of Fano. It is a large, fashionable bath- 
ing place, off the western coast of Jutland. It has a 
fine beach, sloping smoothly down to the sea. 

On the beach and the terraces are ladies in elegant 
costumes. Others are seated in basket chairs or tents, 
or walking about. There are green bathing machines 
and swarms of bathers, and every one appears to be 
having a very gay time. Children build castles in the 
sand and wade to their hearts' content. 

Many of these people belong to noble or wealthy 
Danish and foreign families who come to spend part of 
every year in this pleasant health resort. Some of 
them own the villas we just passed. Others live at 
the great hotels near the beach. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK, 



59 



GLIMPSES OF JUTLAND. 

From Fano we return to the mainland and take a train 
at Esbjerg for Kolding, a two hours' ride across country . 
At first our journey takes us through quiet, barren, 
heathery moors and sandhills; but everywhere in east- 
ern Jutland the eye is met by well tilled fields with 
picturesque manor houses and large wealthy villages. 

Kolding is a quaint and beautiful old place, remark- 
able for the ruins of an old royal castle almost destroyed 
by a fire. The scenery about the town is very fine, 
giving one glimpses of water, ravines, hills and woods. 
Many there are who come here to N enjoy the good sea- 
bathing. 




A JUTLAND TOWN 



The northern part of Jutland is a barren, sandy 
waste. The soil is poor and yields but scanty crops to 
the farmer. There are many sand hills, the sand from 



60 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



which is carried by storms from the coast far inland.' 
These sand storms are a source of great annoyance to 
the farmers near the coast, as their crops are often 
destroyed by them. To keep the sands from blowing 
and shifting about, the people plant a kind of grass 
with long fine roots, and trees and shrubs to break the 
force of the wind. 

At one time 
there was a town 
on the northern 
part of the penin- 
sula, but the sand 
storms drove the 
people away, and 
to-day their homes 
are completely 
buried. 

In the northern 
and western part 
of the country 
large beds of turf 
or peat are found. 
The peat is cut out 
in square blocks, 
dried and used for 
fuel. Denmark has 
neither coal nor 
metal. The only 
mineral product is 

A GLIMPSE OF A DANISH HOME. . . ' , 

a clay used in the 
manufacture of porcelain. This has become an im- 
portant industry. 




i 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



61 



Much of the land that is not cultivated is used for 
grazing purposes. 

Suppose we visit some of the homes of the farmers 
in Northern Denmark. A few of them are well-to-do, 
but most of them are poor. The farmers on the coast 
add to their income by fishing as well as farming. 

The houses are low, but one story high, and are cov- 
ered with straw roofs. A thick matting of green moss 
sometimes covers the roof. The floors are of clay; 
pounded hard and smooth. This does away with the 
necessity for scrubbing, you see. 

Let us enter a 
farm house. The 
door is so low that 
a man would need 
to stoop while en- 
tering. The ceil- 
ing is but a few 
inches above our 
heads. The floor 
is of clay. The 
room is furnished 
with benches and 
a hand loom. 

The next room 
we enter is the 
sitting room. The 
furniture is very 
simple— chairs, a table, benches, and a bed. The room 
is heated by a cast iron stove in which a peat fire is 
burning. From the sitting room we pass to a small 
kitchen, and from this to another room used as a 




MARKET SQUARE IN A JUTLAND TOWN 



62 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 

stable. The farmer keeps his cattle, sheep, pigs and 
poultry here. 

There are pots of flowers in the windows of some of 
the farm houses. On the chimneys or roofs storks 
build their nests. 

One village we visit seems almost like a Dutch town. 
The houses are neat and trim, and have gardens sur- 
rounded by hedges: The houses are sometimes decor- 
*ated with carved figure heads, relics perhaps of vessels 
wrecked off the coast. Through the cottage doors we 
can see a display of old Delft crockery. 

ZEALAND. 

We leave the north and approach the island of Zea- 
land, the largest and most important of the Danish 
isles. On the northern point of its coast is the town of 
Elsinore, formerly a most important place. Its beau- 
tiful imposing old castle of Kronborg, with turrets, 
spires and cannon on ramparts, guards the entrance to 
the sound. It is very narrow, being but a little more 
than a mile wide in one place, but through it pass most 
of the ships that carry on trade with Scandinavia, 
Russia and North Germany. 

Every visitor wishes to see the old castle,from which 
the Danish flag floats. It is a little way from the 
town on the point of land nearest Sweden. It has 
thick walls, massive towers and deep moats. This was 
the home of Hamlet, Prince of Denmark, the hero of 
one of Shakespeare's plays, and his ghost is still said to 
wander on its ramparts. 

There are many interesting legends connected with 
the place, that visitors are sure to be told. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



63 



Down in the deepest vault, behind walls which none 
can penetrate, is supposed to live Holger Danske, the 
nation's hero. He has slept a thousand years, and 
while sleeping his white beard has grown fast to the 
stone table, at which he has sat. But some day, they 
say, he will awake, tear his beard from the table and 
wield his sword again for his country. 

The dungeons are greatly feared, as they have been 
regarded for ages as the abode of ghosts and demons. 
It is thought that they object to the presence of the 
living, for it is said that no person venturing into their 
gloomy depths ever returns. 




KRONBORG CASTLE 



At one time no one could be found who would enter 
the dungeons, and so for years they were left deserted 
and alone. But one day a slave condemned to death 



64 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 

(so the story goes) was offered his liberty if he would 
consent to enter the dungeon and return to tell what 
he had seen and heard. The slave accepted the offer 
and descended to the lowest depths, encountering such 
fearful sights as made his blood run cold. Shrieks and 
moans of spirits and the howls of demons met his ears. 
But he bravely kept on his way until he came to the 
last dungeon. Opening the door, he beheld a strange 
spectacle. A company of knights in armor was seated 
around a long table, with their heads dropped forward 
and covered with their hands. At the end of the table 
was seated Holger Danske. The knights seemed to be 
sleeping, but on hearing the slave at the door they 
raised their faces and turned them toward the stranger. 

The hero greeted him kindly, and asked him how 
affairs were progressing with the nation. He seemed 
glad to know that all was well, and offered his hand to 
the slave as a token of his esteem. 

The frightened man hesitated, not knowing what the 
consequence would be of a hand shake with the knight 
with an iron glove. He finally held out an iron bar, 
and it proved a lucky thing that he did so, for the 
knight gripped it so tightly that the marks of his iron 
fingers were left upon it. 

He was allowed to leave the place in peace, however, 
and return to the upper world with his wonderful story . 
To prove its truth he carried with him the iron bar, 
and, to those who doubted, pointed to those marks on 
the iron. 

At the time the castle was erected both sides of the 
sound belonged to Denmark. Kronborg stood sentry 
at the gates of the Kingdom. It controlled the gate 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO- DENMARK. 65 

into the Baltic Sea and made all ships passing pay a 
toll or tax. It protected the town, and its soldiers 
took care that the ships paid the sound dues. All 
ships were obliged to stop and their captains had 
to go ashore. 

Those were merry days in Elsinore. Through its 
streets rolled the carriages of the consuls of every 
country in Europe. But now all is changed. 

The sound duties were removed in 1857, and Den- 
mark no more collects tribute. The sound is now free 
for the ships of all nations and -Elsinore is visited only 
by strangers interested in Danish history. 

Close by the castle, on a slope in a park, is Hamlet's 
grave. All foreigners come to see it and the prome- 
nade to it is a favored one in summer. 

Leaving Elsinore we pass into the smooth and shel- 
tered waters of the sound. Along the coast of Zealand 
are countless country homes and villages, and be- 
hind them stretch forests of beech trees. 

THE HARBOR. 

Making our way among steamers of every size, ply- 
ing in all directions, we now pass through the narrow 
entrance to the harbor of Copenhagen. The custom 
house is on the right and the anchorage on the left. 

In a little box on the custom house pier is a harbor 
officer, who hails each one of the outward and inward 
bound ships. After standing and listening to his ques- 
tions and the answers he receives, one has a very good 
idea of the close daily communication between England 
and Denmark. Every second person seems to be go- 
ing to or coming from England. 



66 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



Danish farming produce, butter, pork, eggs, corn, 
etc., is daily sent to England. English vessels are 
bringing coal to Denmark. About 35,000 sailing ves- 
sels and steamers pass the watchman on the custom 
house pier every year. Ship building is an important 
industry of Denmark. We can visit the ship yards 
while here. 




THE PORT OR HARBOR OP COPENHAGEN 



Copenhagen means "merchants' haven" and its 
name seems to fit it very well indeed. The harbor is 
full of ships, flying the colors of many nations. On 
the wharves are sailors and merchantmen and crowds 
of laborers loading and unloading the vessels. Goods 
are piled everywhere and granaries line the wharves. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 67 

THE CITY. 

The city is built on two islands with an arm of the 
sound between. The larger part of the city lies on the 
island of Zealand, the other on the island of Amager. 

The streets are narrow, but well paved and clean. 
Many of them have canals, and it seems odd to see the 
masts of the boats lying in them, rise up above and be- 
tween the houses. It reminds us of the streets of Hol- 
land. 




A BUSY STREET. 



The houses are of brick or stone, with red tiled roofs, 
and look very new and clean. Much of the city looks as 
if only recently built. There seem to be no wretched, 



68 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 

overcrowded, unclean streets or tenement houses, so 
common in other European cities and in America. 

The shops or stores are built over basements, so that 
when we go shopping we must go upstairs or to the 
second floor. 

At first we wonder how the place is kept so clean, 
but learn that it is an ancient custom for every house- 
holder to see to the sweeping of the street and pave- 
ment in front of his own place. Several times a day 
the asphalt is brushed. 

The streets are swept by paupers. They make a 
very quaint appearance as they sally forth in their 
black clothes and wooden shoes, each carrying an im- 
mense watering can and a huge broom. 

It is a pleasant city in which to drive or ride. The 
tramway cars are clean and comfortable, the horses 
are fine and the cabs large and roomy. Electric boats 
are used on the lakes. 

There are a number of high towers in different parts 
of the city, where one may secure a fine view. We select 
the Round Tower of Trinity Church, as that is the 
most noted of all. The ascent is by way of a covered 
road which is carried upward in a spiral to the sum- 
mit. At the topis a great dome, commanding a pros- 
pect of all the country lying round about. 

From the top of the tower we can see the most im- 
portant buildings of the city, and beyond it great for- 
ests of beech trees; green, flat meadow lands; canals, 
the blue waters of the sound and sea, and even the dis- 
tant shores of Sweden. 

Copenhagen consists of an old and a new part, as 
does the city of Paris. Boulevards skirt the old town, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



69 



replacing the ramparts and the picturesque moats the 
still waters of which reflect the fine old trees bordering 
them. 

In the principal 
streets, between 
two and four 
o'clock, the ladies 
of the city may be 
seen shopping and 
taking their daily 
walk. One great 
street runs through 
the city from east 
to west. It is 
Frederiksberg, one 
of the principal 
promenades, and 
the finest avenue 
in the city. 

On a summer 
Sunday, this ave- 
nue is crowded 
with inhabitants 
of the garrets and 
basements of the 
poorer streets of 
Copenhagen. 

In the most fashionable place of residence in the city, 
Bredgage, we find the palace of King George of 
Greece, part of which is the town house of Prince and 
Princess Charles of Denmark. 

Near this street are Amalienborg Square and Castles, 




U S. CONSULATE. 



70 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



the residence of the royal family. A more handsome 
square hardly exists in Europe. In the middle is the 
bronze statue of King Frederick V. Every day when 
the king is at Amalienborg Palace, the band of the 
Royal Life Guard plays in the square. Members of the 
royal family may then be seen at the Palace windows 
listening to the music. Sometimes the gates open and 

a royal carriage 
with scarlet liver- 
ied servants drives 
out into town. 

In the immedi- 
ate neighborhood 
are many buildings 
of interest. Among 
them Frederick's 
Church and hospi- 
tal, the surgeons' 
hall, the Russian 
Church, and the 
Danish Parliament 
buildings in the 
Palace of Chris- 




THE KING'S GUARD AND FREDERICK'S CHURCH. 



tianborg. 



The Danes have a king, but they have also a Con- 
gress called the Rigsdag. The Rigsdag makes the 
laws and taxes the people. 

Among all the buildings of the city the place of honor 
must be given to the magnificent new Town Hall. Its 
great tower dwarfs all the surrounding towers and 
spires. It has a large, covered courtyard, which is the 
Guild Hall. Over the principal entrance is a statue 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



71 



of Bishop Absalon, the founder of Copenhagen. Among 
the original features of the building is a dove-cote in 
the shape of a round tower, intended for a flock of 
doves which hover over the palace as emblems of 
peace. 

From a long dis- 
tance, one sees the 
spire of the Ex- 
change, a pictur- 
esque, red brick 
building. This 
spire is one hun- 
dred and fifty feet 
high, and very cu- 
riously twisted. It 
is formed of four 
bronze dragons, 
with their tails 
twisted together 
high in the air. 
This spire has a 
story, too. It once 
decorated a build- 
i n g in Sweden. 
When Denmark 
was at war with 
that country, the spire was taken as booty, brought 
across the sound and deposited where we now see it. 

Here is the Tower of St. Nicholas, where the watch- 
men keep watch at night for fires. Should a fire be dis- 
covered, the watchman gives a shrill whistle and a loud 
cry. If the fire occurs at night the people in the neigh- 




KING CHRISTIAN 



72 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



borhood of the fire put a tub of water before their 
doors, and then go back to their beds. 

THORWALDSEN AND HIS MUSEUH. 

In many places we have been reminded of Denmark's 
most famous sculptor, Thorwaldsen. In cities out- 
side of Denmark 
one often sees his 
handiwork, and 
the shops in Copen- 
hagen show many 
casts, statues, 
friezes or photo- 
graphs of himself 
and his works of 
art. 

But we have yet 
to see the Palace 
of Art, that con- 
tains his collection, 
and to learn some- 
thing of his life. 

Bertel Thor- 
waldsen was the 
son of a poor ship 
carver. Some say 
he was born in 
Iceland, others claim Copenhagen as his first home. 
When but a little lad, Bertel helped his father with 
the carving, and developed so much talent that he was 
sent to the University at Copenhagen. By untiring 
industry and hard study he gained both honors and 




NEW TOWN HALL. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 73 

prizes, and with the money earned went to Rome to 
study. There he toiled patiently for six long years, 
without friends or encouragement. 

At length his money was exhausted; but, just as he 
was on the point of giving up in discouragement and 
returning to his poor home, he received an order for a 
statue. This was the beginning of prosperity. Other 
orders followed rapidly and soon the poor sculptor was 
famous. At times he employed as many as forty 
assistants— artists and marble hewers. 

From time to time Thorwaldsen visited his native 
city, where he was received with distinction and honors 
and loaded with favors and commissions. The most of 
his life was spent away from his native land, but at 
the age of sixty-eight he returned to spend the re- 
mainder of his days in his beloved Copenhagen. 

A friend suggested to him that at his death he should 
give to this city the collection of his works which he 
himself possessed. He was pleased with the idea, and 
together with friends set about finding a suitable place 
for them. 

A stable belonging to the royal palace was offered 
for this purpose, and a skillful architect turned it into 
the building which is now known as the Thorwaldsen 
Museum. It is a low building of brick and stucco, oc- 
cupying one side of the square near Christianborg 
Palace. It is two stories high, forms a quadrangle, 
and encloses a court of the same shape. 

It was the wish of the sculptor that at death his 
body be placed in the midst of his Museum among his 
works of art, and there we find his tomb to-day, in 
the center of the court. 



74 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



Over the doorway of the museum is a statue of 
Victory. Around the three sides of the building is a 
bas-relief which has for its subject the arrival and land- 
ing of the ships that brought Thorwaldsen, together 
with his treasures, from Rome to Copenhagen. 




THORWALDSEN'S MUSEUM. 



There are forty-two rooms grouped about the court, 
and in them a vast collection of statues, busts, reliefs, and 
monuments in marble and plaster. In one room we find 
the paintings, vases, coins and other articles of interest 
collected by him during his residence in Rome. In 
another room is his furniture. 

Some of the casts and reliefs are familiar to us. And 
when we come upon the originals of Day and Night we 
feel as if we had found old friends. 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 75 

Near the door is the sculptured marble form of the 
Lion of Lucerne, and in an adjoining room the heroic 
figure of Jason with the golden fleece. There is another, 

too, that we are glad to see, the 

noble figure of the sculptor him- 
self as he is at work, chiseling 
forms of beauty out of marble. 

The finest statue ever carved 
by this artist is that of our 
Savior in the Church of Our 
Lady. A visit to the building 
shows us a bare, ugly building 
with a square tower surmounted 
by a plain gilt cross. 

The church is decorated within by the works of a 
single master, which were designed for it. It is more 
than a church, it is a temple, peopled by the creations 
of Thorwaldsen. The portal is flanked by the princi- 
pal figures of the old Testament, bronze statues of 
Moses and David. These two stand outside. In the 
pediment group stands John the Baptist, the voice in 
the wilderness, the forerunner of Christ, preaching to 
young and old. 

Above the main entrance is a long frieze represent- 
ing the entrance of Jesus into Jerusalem. Inside the 
temple, in front of the pillars, are the figures of the 
twelve apostles, larger than life, six on each side. 
Through this line one approaches the altar, where the 
Savior stands as the God of the temple. 

This famous and beautiful statue of the Savior is, per- 
haps, the most perfect ever produced. He is represented 
as bending his head and stretching out his arms as if 



76 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



to embrace all those who are weary and heavily laden. 
On the floor of the choir in front of the altar, kneels a 
beautiful Baptismal angel with a wreath of flowers 
around her head. She holds a bowl in the form of a 
shell, containing christening water. 

Rosenborg Pal- 
ace is one of Den- 
mark's most beau- 
tiful buildings and 
a place of great 
historic interest. 
It is of brick, with 
slender towers,and 
picturesquely 
placed amidst gar- 
dens almost in the 
center of Copenha ■ 
gen. The castle 
was founded by 
KingChrisbian and 
completed in 1624. 
It served as a resi- 
dence for the royal 
family until the 
beginning of this 
century. It is now 
used as a museum or store house for objects of art, 
weapons, royal armor, robes, jewels, coins, and similar 
treasures. These objects are arranged in the rooms 
in which their royal owners lived, and each sovereign 
has furnished and decorated his suite of rooms accord- 
ing to the style of his day. 




THORWALDSEN 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



77 



The Danish national song, "King Christian Stood by 
the Lofty Mast," which celebrates the naval battle of 
Fehmern, in the Baltic July 1st, 1644, in which 
King Christian IV. was wounded, is illustrated in this 
museum. 

There are pieces of the suit he wore on board the 
battle ship when he was wounded. They are stained 
with blood, for he was wounded many times. 

The Knight's 
Hall is very impos- 
ing, with a magni- 
ficent arched ceil- 
ing and walls cov- 
ered with tapestry 
representing i m - 
portant historical 
events. In front 
of the great fire- 
place at the north- 
ern end of the hall, 
is a velvet canopy, 
underneath which 
are the coronation 
chairs of the King 
and Queen. 

The King's chair is made of narwhal-horn and 
adorned with allegorical figures; the Queen's is covered 
with solid silver, and adorned with two figures that 
represent the Fear of God and Charity. Before the cor- 
onation chair stand three silver lions, representing 
the Sound, the Great Belt and the Little Belt. 

These are always carried through the city during the 




ROSENBORG CASTLE. 



78 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 

coronation and funeral processions of the rulers of 
Denmark. 

Two tower rooms contain fine collections of rare old 
Venetian glass, and of Chinese, Japanese, Indian, 
Dresden, French,Swedish and Danish porcelain. There 
is a room where the ceiling, floors, doors, windows and 
walls are all mirrors. 

The garden has a fountain around which is one of 
the favorite play grounds of the Copenhagen children. 
There are fine avenues of old trees, pavilions and 
statues in this garden. 

One of these statues is of Hans Christian Andersen, 
and reminds us that Denmark was the home of this 
Prince of Story Tellers. 

The statue is of bronze and represents the writer 
seated with a book in his hand. He looks as if he 
were just going to tell a story. On the left side of the 
pedestal is a stork and the words, 'Tn Memory of the 
Wonder-Story Teller.' ' Upon the opposite side is the 
group of the "Ugly Duckling," and the words "Erected 
by the Danish people, 1800." 

HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN. 

What pleasure this writer has given to countless 
thousands of children, not only in his own country but 
in all parts of the world ! The little Danish folks play- 
ing around us in the park know quite as well as we his 
beautiful stories of the Stork, the Ugly Duckling, the 
Fir Tree, the Match Girl, and the Tin Soldier. 

Hans Andersen was born in the town of Odense, on 
the Island of Fuen. His parents were poor, and while 
Hans was a small boy the father died. Hans missed 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



79 



his father sorely, for he had been his constant com- 
panion. 

When left alone he was obliged to amuse himself, 
and he did it in a very curious way. He dressed 
dolls, and made them act out the stories and plays 
his father had read to him. He also learned to recite 
poems and stories 
and to sing songs 
to amuse his 
mother and the 
neighbors. 

When Hans wa,s 
fourteen his moth- 
er wished him to 
learn a trade, but 
the boy loved 
books and was am- 
bitious to become 
a writer and actor. 
He told his mother 
that if she would 
let him go to Cop- 
enhagen, he would 
make a fortune and come home famous. 

The mother thought this very foolish talk, and 
laughed at him. But after a time she consulted a 
fortune teller as to what she should do. This wise old 
woman told her that Hans would become a great 
man, and that the town of Odense would one day be 
illuminated in his honor. 

Then the mother consented to let the boy go, and so, 
with but a few dollars in his pocket, he set out on his 




A STREET IN ODENSE. 



80 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 






journey. When he reached Copenhagen he tried to 
make some money by singing, but his shoes and clothes 
were so poor and thin that he got a severe cold and 
his voice was spoiled by hoarseness. Then he wrote 
some little stories and tried to sell them, but he spelled 
very badly and people would not buy them. 

By and by he 
made some friends, 
and they advised 
him to go to school 
and offered to help 
pay for his lessons. 
Hans gladly ac- 
cepted the offer. 
Though almost a 
man he was oblig- 
ed to enter a class 
with the very 
smallest boys in 
school, but he 
worked hard until 
able to spell well. 
Then he tried 
again to write 
fairy stories such 
as children like. 

People now be- 
gan to read what 
he wrote, and to talk about him. They wondered how 
he knew just exactly the kind of stories children like 
best; and they wondered, too^ as he grew older in 
years, that he never seemed old, as most people did. 




STATUE OF HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 81 

He was just a big boy all his life, and kept on 
" making believe/' exactly as children do. 

By and by the children of many lands came to know 
and love him through the beautiful stories he wrote 
for them. Sometimes he went to little sick children 
and read stories to them. Kings and princes and 
great men invited him to their homes. They loved to 
hear him read and tell stories quite as well as the 
children. Thorwaldsen, the sculptor, was one of his 
friends. 

When he died in 1875, the people erected this 
statue to him. It stands at the end of an avenue of 
trees in a plat of flowers. It is a pleasant, shady 
place, and a favorite playground of the children. 

The figures on the statue remind us of Andersen's 
most famous story, "The Ugly Duckling." He said it 
was like the story of his own life. At first he met with 
only sorrow and disappointment, but at last every 
thing came out right. His life, too, was a lovely story 
that could not have been better if a good fairy had 
guided him. 

From Rosenborg Palace we go to the Prince's 
Palace, in which is the National Museum, and to other 
places where collections,weapons of war, pottery, house- 
hold articles, and many other things are exhibited. 
One can study the history of Denmark from these 
exhibits. 

They are classified and arranged according to the 
age or period to which they belong. There is the 
iron age, and the flint, bronze, and stone ages, as well 
as the modern age. 

There are art galleries, too, where one might spend 



82 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



hours studying works of the ofd masters and of tal- 
ented Danish artists, but these we must leave for 
another day. 

T1VOLI. 

Now let us see how the Danish peeple amuse them- 
selves. They are as fond of music, of dancing, and of 
the theatre as are the French, and in the midst of the 
noisy hum and crowding of business life they have set 




IN A COPENHAGEN PARK. 



apart one spot where they may be free from care, 
and enjoy themselves. This is a place of amusement 
or park known as "Tivoli." 

It is really an immense garden, with shady avenues, 
neat walks ornamented with statues, pleasant resting 
places, seats, restaurants, booths and band stands. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 83 

There is a tranquil lake in the center where one may 
enjoy a ride on a tiny steamer, or in a row boat. 

There are tents, platforms and buildings where one 
may see freaks and wonders, panoramas, shows, operas, 
concerts, trapeze performances, merry-go-rounds, 
swings, shooting galleries, and pavilions for dancing. 

All summer long this place is thronged with pleasure 
seekers. People of both high and low degree, nobles, 
workmen, and peasants from Zealand and the south of 
Sweden, old people, children, babies, students, digni- 
fied citizens and their wives, and in fact everybody, 
come. Tivoli offers some pleasure to each. 

The place is gayest on Sunday, when the streets of 
the city are deserted. At four o'clock the cannon sa- 
lute announces the Tivoli 's pleasures are to begin. 
During tfye hours that follow, people stream in thou- 
sands through the gates, dressed in Sunday best. They 
are greeted by sounds of music floating through the 
park. There are two large orchestras belonging to the 
place, one playing in an open pavilion near the en- 
trance, and another larger one in the Concert Hall. 

This Hall is one of the centers of attraction. In the 
back of the building and in the veranda running 
round it. waiters in dress coats hurry to and fro, 
bringing Danish bread and butter and other refresh- 
ments to those seated at the small tables. Outside, 
people walk about and chat with their friends. 

Many gather about a place known as "Artists' Lawn." 
It is an enclosed space where acrobats, athletes, rope 
dancers, jugglers, clowns, trapeze performers and ani- 
mal trainers appear to amuse the multitude. There 
are reserved seats for those who wish them, but thou- 



84 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



sands of the people stand to watch the performance. 
"When darkness settles down, Tivoli shows itself in 

all its glory. The 
illumination b e - 
gins. Over the 
garden walks rise 
arches of green and 
red lanterns, lawns 
and flowerbeds are 
bordered with 
pearl chains o f 
white ground glass 
lamps, and on all 
sides rise fantastic 
castles of fire." 

A radiant fairy 
palace blazes 
through the dark- 
ness. This is the 
Bazaar, a long 
wooden building 
in the Moorish 
style, where people 
are eating, drink- 
ing, laughing and 
chatting. In every 




DRESSED FOR A FEAST 



direction lights flash and blaze. 



PARKS AND PLEASURE RESORTS. 

Copenhagen is noted for its parks and pleasure 
grounds. These parks are beautiful, well kept wooded 
gardens. The nightingale and the cuckoo build their 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



85 



nests in the trees, and wild ducks swim about in the wa- 
ters. There are lakes with swans swimming about in 
them and fish playing in shoals on the surface of the 
water. 

On Sundays, working men with their wives and chil- 
dren bring their lunches with them and spend the en- 
tire day in these shady, quiet places. 

The sound, with its violet blue water, wooded shore, 
and picturesque villas, is very beautiful. No Dane ever 
forgets it or wishes to leave it. Every Danish poet 
sings its praises and of the beauty of its summer nights. 

The most famous of all the beautiful places on the 
sound is Skodsborg. A short ride on the steamer, 
along the coast of 
Zealand, brings us 
to this place. 
Every visitor 
comes here to get 
the finest view of 
the sound. No- 
where else is the 
sea bathing so 
good. During the 
summer it is the 
gayest of all the pleasure resorts of Denmark. Near it 
lies the "White Palace," the royal summer residence. 

Across the sound from Skodsborg rise the white 
banks of an island. It is the island of Hveen, where 
Denmark's great astronomer, Tycho Brahe, lived years 
ago. The island is now used as a hunting ground by 
King Oscar of Sweden. 

King Frederick was much interested in the astrono- 




THE SUMMER PALACE. 



86 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 

mer, and gave to him this island, and money to build 
him a home and an observatory. The dwelling was 
known as the Castle of the Heavens. It was somewhat 
like a castle, but in the top was an observatory and a 
great telescope through which Tycho Brahe studied 
the heavens. 

When the king died the astronomer lost his best 
friend. Enemies who had been jealous of the favors 
shown him, conspired against him. His pension was 
taken from him, his home torn down, and his work 
ridiculed and derided. 

It was not until many years later that the value of 
his discoveries became known to the people. When 
they realized what he had done, they tried to make 
amends for past neglect and ill-treatment by erecting a 
monument to his memory. A statue was raised then 
on the very spot on which his home once stood, and 
there it stands to-day. 

INDUSTRIES. 

We find in Copenhagen extensive factories for cot- 
ton goods, porcelain, watches, clocks, pianos, foundries, 
iron works, breweries, distilleries, tobacco factories, and 
sugar refineries. 

The manufactures of Denmark are not important, 
paper, gloves,' wooden clocks, woolens, and earthenware 
of Jutland being the principal ones. 

One-half the people in Denmark are engaged in 
agriculture. The farms are small as in Belgium, but 
they are very carefully cultivated and made to yield 
large crops where the soil is good. The farms usually 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



87 



consist of from one to twelve acres, but there are large 
estates also. 

The pastures are the most important part of the 
farms, for dairy farming is the chief industry. When 
we learn that there are over a million and a half dairy 
cows in this small 
country , we are not 
surprised that but- 
ter constitutes the 
most important 
export. 

Danish butter is 
famous for its 
sweetness and 
freshness. It is 
said that no other 
country in the 
world produces so 
much butter in 
proportion to its 
size. Much of this 
is packed in air 
tight casks and tin 
cans and sent to 
many parts of the 
world. Denmark 
is said to send be- 
tween thirty and 
thirty-five million pounds of butter each year to Eng- 
land alone. 

Besides the cows, there are vast numbers of sheep, 
pigs, goats and horses. The fields afford iine pastures 




ON A DAIRY FARM. 



88 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



for stock. Quantities of meat are shipped to other 
countries, and millions of eggs. The horses of Denmark, 
particularly those of Jutland, are famous for their 
beauty and strength. 

THE PEOPLE. 
The Danes are tall, strong, and a fine looking race. 

They are generally 
fair, with blue eyes 
and light hair. The 
people are exceed- 
ingly polite, and 
men kiss each other 
in a most affec- 
tionate manner 
when they meet. 
Instead of raising 
their hats* to each 
other when they 
pass on the streets, 
they stop and 
shake hands. We 
notice that most 
of them are care- 
fully gloved. Per- 
haps this is be- 
cause gloves in 
Copenhagen are 
cheap. 

The people are 
cheerful, hospita- 
ble, enterprising, independent and self-respecting. 
Those who are considered well-to-do here would be 




A BRIDAL COSTUME IX AMAGER. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 89 

thought poor in our country. The people have few 
comforts and luxuries, but they are so industrious and 
saving, that few of them are very poor, or suffer actual 
want. We find no beggars. 

The inhabitants of Amager are descended from the 
Dutch who were brought to the country to teach their 
Danish neighbors how to garden and improve the cul- 
tivation of vegetables. 

Their quaint costumes may still be seen in some dis- 
tricts, but their use is now dying out. 

The Danish house is very neat and clean, and fur- 
nished much like our own homes. And the people, too, 
seem more like English and " States "people than the 
people of any other country on the continent. 

The Danes are almost all Lutherans, although other 
religions are tolerated. They are among the best edu- 
cated people of Europe. Nearly every one is able to 
read and write. At the age of six, the children enter 
school and must be kept there until they are fourteen, 
no matter how poor the parents. 

The Danish home has no nursery for the little ones, 
as in England. The mother usually has charge of the 
children herself and is always with them. She gives 
them their first lessons and teaches them their earliest 
games. 

Early in the autumn, when the storks have left their 
nests on the chimneys, boats come in laden with coarse 
brown crockery, made in Jutland. Children board 
these boats and timidly make their wants known. 

They wish to buy a "Yule pig." It is of brown 
crockery and has a slit in the back through which the 
child's pennies may go in, but cannot come out till the 



90 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



image is broken. This is done at Christmas time. 
At that season of the year when beeves are killed 
for the winter supply of meat, the annual candle mak- 
ing occurs. This is regarded by old and young as an 
occasion of importance. Not only are the candles 

made for the whole 
year, but a goodly 
number, according 
to the wealth of 
the peasant, are 
made especially 
for Christmas and 
are called " Christ- 
mas candles." 

The Danish chil- 
dren do not know 
about Santa Claus. 
They have instead 
what they call 
a "Christmas 
Brownie," in the 
shape of a little 
old man with a 
long gray beard, 
who is supposed to 
live underground. 
The tree is always lighted on Christmas Eve and 
the family all meet together then. The older people 
get their presents on a plate, at their place at the 
table. The children's gifts are on the tree. 

Roast goose is the chief feature of the Christmas 
Eve dinner, and a dish of rice is eaten before dinner is 




DANISH CHILDREN IN AMAGER. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK.. 



91 



served. Apple fritters make the dessert instead of 
plum pudding. 

According to superstitious Danes, the cattle in the 
stables all rise at midnight Christmas Eve and low in 
salutation. The cows and other animals are well 
fed on this day, and as a special treat the dog is given 
some bread, and his freedom. Even the birds are 
remembered. A 
sheaf of oats or 
grain is fastened 
to a pole or to the 
house top for their 
Christmas dinner. 

In the country 
the houses and 
farms are near to- 
gether, forming 
villages. The 
houses are usually 
built as a square, 
one side being the 
dwelling house and 
the other side the 
farm buildings, 
and stables. The 

newer ones are of stone, brick or cement, while the old 
ones are of frame with straw thatched roofs. 

The peasants are very superstitious, and some of 
them firmly believe in the existence of fairies, or, as 
they call them, trolls and "nisses." They are 
thought to do all sorts of funny and mischievous 
things on the farm. The Danish country women some- 




A FARMYARD 



92 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 



times put out a bowl of food for them to keep them 
good natured, for they will not let the butter be 
churned if they are not well fed. 

The islands Zealand and Funen are fertile and pre- 
sent many beautiful bits of landscape. Great fields 
of corn, barley and rye wave all over Zealand. The 
barley is used in brewing beer, the common bever- 
age of the country. The rye is used for bread. The 
people bake their own bread, usually of rye flour, and 
brew their own beer. They also make the greater 
part of their house furniture and utensils with their 
own hands. 




A COUNTRY VILLAGE STREET IN DENMARK. 



TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 



A Little Journey to Belgium 
and Denmark. 

The class, or travel club, has now completed the study of Belgium 
and Denmark, and is ready for a review. In order to make 
this interesting, let the work be summed up in the form of an enter- 
tainment called — 

AN AFTERNOON OR EVENING IN BELGIUM 
AND DENMARK. 

For the afternoons abroad, given as geography reviews, or as a 
part of the Friday afternoon exercises, invitations may be written 
out by the pupils, or mimeographed or hectographed, and carried to 
friends and parents. 

If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated by sterop- 
ticon views, handbills may be printed and circulated, at least a 
week beforehand. The following form may be used : — 

SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 

A TRIP TO BELGIUM AND DENMARK FOR FIFTEEN CENTS. 

You are invited by the pupils of the school [or the mem- 
bers of the Travel Class or Club] to spend an evening (or afternoon) 
in Belgium and Denmark. 

The party starts promptly at 1:30 P. m. (or 8 P ; m.) the 

Those desiring to take this trip should secure tickets before the day 
of sailing, as the party is limited. Guides are furnished free. 

The proceeds of the entertainment are to be used in the purchase 
of a library and pictures for the school. 



94 teacher's supplement. 

SUGGESTIONS. 

The exercises should be conducted and the talks given by the 
pupils themselves. Some topic should be selected by each pupil, 
or assigned to him and with this topic he should become thoroughly 
familiar. 

Geographies, books of travel, magazine articles and newspapers 
should be consulted until each pupil has his subject well in hand. 
He should also, where possible, secure photographs, pictures or 
objects with which to illustrate his talk. At its close these should 
be placed upon a table, or the chalk tray, that visitors may examine 
them more closely. 

If the entertainment is given in the evening, the teacher may be 
able to use stereopticon views. 

These will prove a very great attraction to both pupils and parents, 
and should be secured if possible. The lantern with oil lamp may 
be easily operated by the teacher while the pupils give the descrip- 
tions of the pictures, or give talks about the country. 

The lanterns and slides may be rented for the evening or after- 
noon at reasonable rates, and the cost covered by an admission fee 
of from ten to twenty-five cents. 

A leader, or guide, may be appointed to make the introductory 
remarks, and to announce the numbers of the programme. 

If time will permit an afternoon may be devoted to each of these 
countries. If not, the first part of the programme may be devoted 
to Belgium and the other to Denmark and her colonies. 

ROOM DECORATION. 

If journeys are to be made to the two countries and colonies in 
one afternoon, the room decorations may be assigned to two sets of 
pupils and the school divided into two groups. The group taking 
part in the program devoted to Belgium may be seated on the 
right hand side of the room ; the others on the left. 

The front blackboard may be divided into two parts, the right 
hand part and one side of the room being devoted to Belgium, and 
the left to Denmark and her colonies. 

Decorate the room with corn flowers, poppies and sprays of wheat, 
rye and barley. A flower border may also be placed across the top 
of the boards. 



SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 95 

On the right hand side of the board print the words, ' 'Belgium, 
the Land of the Wooden Shoe," and under it a sketch of a wooden 
shoe filled with flax flowers. A sketch of a Belgian hare, nibbling 
clover, may be drawn on lower part of board. 

Belgian flags may be grouped over this shoe and over the flags a 
picture of Leopold, the King of Belgium. 

On the side boards tack pictures of Rubens and Van Dyck, 
famous Belgian artists, and copies of their works, which may be 
found among the Perry pictures. 

On the left hand side of the front board hang a picture of the 
sovereign of Denmark, King Christian, and about it group Danish 
flags. Pictures of the stork, eider-duck, and Eskimo may be 
sketched on this board also. 

On the side board hang a picture of Thorwaldsen and copies of 
his works, or plaster casts, medallions, and bas reliefs. • The plaster 
casts "Day'' and "Night'' maybe secured (the smaller sizes costing 
but ten or fifteen cents each), and these may be allowed to remain 
on the walls. 

A picture of Hans Christian Andersen may be hung over a little 
table, on which are placed copies of Andersen's books. The pupils 
should be encouraged to examine and read these during the month, 
and to secure copies for the r own libraries. 

If a prize is to be given for good work, a copy of the Fairy Tales 
or of Thorwaldsen's "Day" and "Night" may be presented. 

A table may be devoted to an exhibit of articles from each of 
these countries, and a third to Denmark's colonies, the Faroe Is- 
lands, Iceland and Greenland, and the Danish West Indies. 

Over the Belgian table, print the words "The Workshop of 
Europe." Upon this table place cards with pieces of lace of vari- 
ous kinds attached. Let some pupil who is familiar with the names 
of the different kinds of lace manufactured in Europe, show the 
samples, tell their names aud where each is manufactured. Let her 
show pieces of linen also, for which Belgium is famous, and show to 
pupils the difference between linen and cotton. 

Over the table devoted to the Iceland and Greenland exhibit, place 
pictures or natural history charts showing the animals native to 
these places. Fur rugs may be used for the floor, and articles made 



96 teacher's supplement. 

of fur shown. Dolls dressed as Eskimos may be given a place in 
the exhibit also. 

AN AFTERNOON IN BELGIUM. 

PROGRAMME. 

1. Introduction. 

2. Antwerp. 

3. The Carillon of Antwerp Cathedral. (Reading or Recitation.) 

4. The Country. 

5. Recitation, "The Spinners." 

6. Song, "Spinning." 

7. Belgian Hare Industry. 

8. Ghent. 

9. From Ghent to Aix, (Recitation). 

10. The Great Bell Roland, (Recitation). 

11. Bruges. 

12. Bruges, (Recitation or Reading.) 

13. The Belfry of Bruges, (Recitation or Reading). 

14. Ostend. 

15. Brussels. , 

16. The People. 

17. National Anthem. 

18. Lace Industry. 

19. Flemish Artists and their Work. 

20. Waterloo. 

AN AFTERNOON IN DENMARK AND 
HER COLONIES. 

PROGRAMME. 

1 . Introduction. 

2. Recitation or Song, "Towards the North." 

3. Fano Island. 

4. Glimpses of Jutland. 

5. Zealand, 

6. The Harbor. - 

7. Copenhagen. 

8. The Battle of the Baltic. 

9. Song, Danish National Hymn. 



SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 97 

10. Thorwaldsen and His Museum. 

11. Rosenborg Palace. 

12. Andersen and His Work. 

13. A Fairy Story, (by Andersen). . 

14. Tivoli. 

15. Song, "The Dannebrog." 

16. The Danish People. 

17. Amusements. 

18. Recitation, "Denmark," by pupil in Danish Costume. 

19. The Country. 

20. Song, "The Powers." 

21. The Faroe Islands. 

22. Recitation, "Northern Seas." 

23. Iceland. 

24. Icebergs, Glaciers and Geysers. 

25. Greenland. 

26. The Eskimo. 

27. Tableau, "Eskimo." 

28. Song, "The Eskimo." 

29. Recitation, ' 'The Eskimo. " 

30. Animal Life in [celand and Greenland, 

31. The Fisheries. 

32. Song, "The Fisherman." 

33. Departure for Home. 

34. Song, "The Voyagers." 

SONGS. 

1 . Danish National Hymn. 

2. "Towards the North, " a Patriotic Song of Denmark, Songs 

of all Nations. 

3. "The Powers," National School Library of Song. 

4. "The Dannebrog," Little Journey. 

5. "The Fisherman," Riverside Song Book. 

6. Spinning Song, Academy Song Book. 

7. "Little Eskimo," Songs in Season. 

8. "The Eskimo," Carrie Adams Music Book. 

9. "The Voyagers," Riverside Song Book. 
10. National Air of Belgium, Little Journey. 



DANISH NATIONAL HYMN. 



Jl^ 



Marziale. 



A '— 



-<52- 



i. King Chris-tian stood by 

2. Nils Juel gave heed to th' 

3. North sea! a glimpse of 



loft - y mast, In 
tem-pest's roar, Now 
Wes - sel rent, Thy 



mist and 
is the 

murk - y 



i 



&= 



SE 



^ 



smoke, His " sword was ham - mer ■ 
hour! He hois-ted his blood -red 

sky! Then cham-pions to thine 



ing 

flag 
arms 



so fast, Thro' 
once more, And 
were sent; Ter- 



i 



:fe^=^ 



Goth - ic helm and brain it passed, Then sank each hos - tile 
smote up - on the foe full sore, And shout-ed loud thro' the 
ror and Death glared where he went; From th' waves was heard a 



i 



-y- 



±- 



hulk and mast, In mist 
tern - pest's roar, "Now is 
wail, that rent Thy murk 



and smoke, 
the hour." 
- y sky! 



'•Fly!" shouted the}-, "fly 
"Fly!" shouted they, "for 
From Den-mark thun-ders 






he who can! Who braves of Den - mark's Chris - tian, Who 
shel - ter fly! Of Den-mark's Juel who can de - fy. Of 
Tor- den-skiol! Let each to Heav'n com-mend his soul, Let 



i 



braves of 
Den - mark's 
each to 



Den-mark's Chris 
Juel who can de 
Heav'n com-mend his 



tian 

fy 

soul, 



the 

the 
and 



stroke.'' 
pow'r?" 
fly. 



THE DANNEBROG. 




Patriotic song of Denmark. 

J SI i I 



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i. Proud Dan - ne - brog is float -ing O'er Co -dan's roll - ing flood; 
2. Wave high in bat - tie proud-ly, Like Ju - bel's sword, so bold; 



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Night can - not hide thy glo - ry, O ban - ner, red as blood! 
When can - non thunders loud - ly, Thy song be Tor - deu-skiold, 



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For thee has brave-ly striv - en And fall - en man - y a knight; 

And when t'wards heav'n thou fli - est, In glow-ing light and flame, 

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— i — — — i 1 1 — \— 



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Thy glo - ry fills the heav - en, Wave high thy cross of light. 
Shout to the heav-ens high - est The he - ro Hvidfeld's name. 



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NATIONAL AIR OF BELGIUM. 



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SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 101 

RECITATIONS AND READINGS FOR THE PROGRAMME. 

BELGIUM. 

The Great Bell, Roland (Ghent). Tilton, in Poems of Places, 

Longfellow. 
The Pield of Waterloo, Scott. 
The Eve of Waterloo, Lord Byron. 
Bruges, Longfellow. 
From Ghent to Aix, Browning. 
The Carillon. 
The Flax Spinner's Song. 
The Belfry of Bruges, Longfellow. 

DENMARK. 

The Battle of the Baltic, Campbell. 

The Arctic Lover, Bryant. 

Towards the North. 

Northern Seas, Mary Howitt. 

An Arctic Vision, Bret Harte. 

Icebergs, T. B. Read. 

The King of Denmark's Ride, Poems of Places. 

Winter at Copenhagen, Poems of Places. 

The Ghost of Hamlet's Father, Poems of Places. 

Kallundborg Cburch, Whittier, Poems of Places. 

The Dale of Jarl Thorkell, Poems, of Places. 

King Olaf's War Horns, Longfellow. 

If the description of the stork has not been given in the "After- 
noon in Holland," it may be given here, and also the Story of the 
Stork by Hans Christian Andersen, the poem "To the Stork" by 
Longfellow, or the Song of the Stork, as suggested in the Teacher's 
Supplement of Holland. 

Suggestions for additions to the programme may also be found in 
the Teacher's Supplements of the Journeys to Canada and Alaska. 

PATRIOTIC SONG OP DENMARK. 
TOWARDS THE NORTH. 

Towards the North a beauteous land is lying. 
And tho' we find no towering mountains there, 



102 teacher's supplement. 

No land exists its loveliness outvying. 

It is our fatherland, our Denmark fair. 

Afar the North Sea's silvery waves are glowing, 

And leafy elms where feathered songsters nest • 

On every part kind Heaven some gift's bestowing 

On every part God's peaceful blessings rest. 

From Eyder's stream to Skagen's white hills gleaming, 

With those of Fuen's isle in glimmering sheen ; 

There, clotheu in white near Falster's strand and Laalanct, 

The maiden of the wave stands crowned with green, 

Her healthy people ne'er can want be knowing; 

The grain here, like a heaving sea, waves high, 

'Round flowery meadows bowers fair are growing, 

Ah, here 'tis sweet to live and hard to die. 

Thus stream and sound the town and meadows sever, 

Yet Denmark stands united in its might; 

A nation's faithful love will bind it ever, 

And honor stands a guardian for its right. 

A common cause here every heart is blending, 

And loving children guard each native shore ; 

All Danish hearts one prayer to heaven are sending, 

God guard our King and land forevermore. 

THE FLAX SPINNER'S SONG. 

Now is the flax so fair and long; 

Ho! ho! ho! 
And now the poor man's heart is strong, 
And now ascends his swelling song, 

The grateful heart's o'er flow. 

What torments must the flax endure ! 

Ho! ho! ho! 
They'll dig a pond and heave it in. 
Them beat and bruise it short and thin ; 

Hallo! hallo! hallo! 

The fla3 T er, he will break the straw, 
Rack! rack! rack! 



POEMS. 103 

The gleaner, he will scrape and glean, 
Till not a single sheaf is seen, 
Then throw it on the pack. 

The batcheler then must make it fine, 

Hash! hash! hash! . 
He draws it out so fine and fair, 
He forms the woof with speed and care 

And lays it on the rash. 

And then, when winter comes along, 

Groll! groll! groll! 
The woofs are set, and man and wife, 
They spin, as if they spun for life, 
They spin full many a roll. 

And now the bride will be so gay, 

Ho! ho! ho! 
She'll spin by night,, she'll spin by day, 
Her bridal dress she' 11 spin away, 

Fine as her hair, I know. 

Hurrah ! hurrah ! the flax is good, 

Ho! ho! ho! 
Who does his duty daily, he 
Must always bright and happy be 

Whether in weal or woe. 

The flax rewards our cheerful toil ; 

Ho! ho! ho! 
And many a mighty prince's son 
Who wears the linen we have spun, 

Our joy may never know. 

From the German, Tr. C. T. Brooks. 

THE BATTLE OP THE BALTIC. 

In 1801 Copenhagen was bombarded by the English under Nel- 
son, the naval hero. A British poet has commemorated this battle 
in the "Battle of the Baltic." 



104 tfacher's supplement. 

Of Nelson and the North 

Sing the glorious day's renown 
When to battle fierce came forth 
All the might of Denmark's crown, 

And her arms along the deep proudly shone ; 
By each gun the lighted brand 
In a bold, determined hand 
And the Prince of all the land 
Led them on. 

Like leviathans afloat, 

Lay their bulwarks on the brine ; 
"When the sign of battle flew 
On the lofty British line; 

It was ten of April morn by the chime ; 
As they drifted on their path, 
There was silence deep as death; 
And the boldest held his breath, 
For a time. 

But the might of England flushed 

To anticipate the scene; 
And her van the fleeter rushed 
O'er the deadly space between, 

"Hearts of oak!" our captains cried, when 
each gun 
From its adamantine lips 
Spread a death-shade round the ships, 
Like the hurricane eclipse 
Of the sun! 

Again! again! again! 

And the havoc did not slack 
Till a feeble cheer the Dane 

To our cheering sent us back. 

Their shots along the deep slowly boom, 
Then cease — and all is wail, 
As they strike the shattered sail : 



POEMS. 105 

Or in conflagration pale 
Light the gloom! 

Outspoke the Victor then, 

As he hailed them o'er the wave; 
"Ye are brothers! ye are men!" 
And we conquer but to save ! 

So peace, instead of death, let us bring; 
But yield, proud foe, thy fleet, 
With the crews, at England's feet, 
And make submission meet 
To our King. " 

Then Denmark blessed our Chief, 

That he gave her wounds repose ; 
And the sounds of joy and grief 
From her people wilclty rose, 

As Death withdrew his shade from the day ; 
While the sun looked smiling bright 
O'er a wide and woeful sight 
Where the fires of funeral light 
Died away. 

Now joy, Old England, raise! 

For the tidings of our might, 
By the festal cities' blaze, 

While the wine cup shines in light ; 
And yet amidst that joy and uproar. 
Let us think of them that sleep, 
Full many a fathom deep, 
By the wild and stormy steep, 
Elsinore ! 

Brave hearts! to Britain's pride, 

Once so faithful and so true 
On the deck of fame that died, 

With the gallant, good Riou! 

Soft sigh the winds of heaven o'er their grave! 



106 teacher's supplement, 

While the billow mournful rolls, 
And the mermaid's song condoles, 
Singing glory to the souls 
Of the brave! 

Thomas Campbell. 

THE CARILLON OF ANTWERP CATHEDRAL. 

In the pleasant land of Belgium, 
Where the Scheldt first seeks the main, 
Stands a quaint, old gabled city, 
Fashioned like a town of Spain. 

Though that grand old town of Antwerp, 
Rich in shows of bygone time, 
As on eyesight falls the sunshine, 
Bursts the bright cathedral chime. 

On the sultry air of summer, 
On December's chilling blast, 
On the dull, blank ear of midnight, 
Is that carillon sweetly cast, 

Like the golden grain in seed-time, 
Scattered with a hopeful care, 
That the genial after-season 
May produce some harvest there. 

Oft forgotten, oft remembered, 
Startling, strange, and silent soon, 
Lovely, even though neglected 
Like the light of crescent moon. 

Where the reveller's song is loudest, 
Where dim tapers light the dead, 
Where the stranger seeks his chamber, 
Steals that cadence overhead. 

Where the monk is at his vigil, 
Where the air is foul with sin, 
Where the lonely sick one waketh, 



POEMS. 107 

That old chime strays softly in. 

To the vile in notes of warning, — 
Chiding tones that seldom cease, — 
To the sad in words of solace, 
To the pure in thoughts of peace. 

O'er the city, o'er the river, 
Through each quarter of the town, 
Through each day, and through each season, 
Rains that frequent music down. 

Even across the parting ocean, 
In still chambers of the brain, 
At this moment, through the silence, 
Breaks that magic sound again. 

Like the carillon softly chiming, 
Soothing ) gentle as its fall, 
Is the ceaseless dole of mercy, 
Unperceived, that comes to all. 

And our nobler life is nourished, 
As we count the beads of time, 
By pure hopes and aspirations 
Sweeter than that minster chime. 

0, 'tis well to pause and listen 
To those benisons in the air, 
As we tread life's busy pathway, 
That salute us everywhere. 

Anonymous. 



REFERENCE BOOKS. 

BELGIUM. 

Les Miserables, Victor Hugo. 

Vanity Fair, Thackeray. 

A Dog of Flanders, Ouida. 

In the Ardennes, Macquoid. 

The Land of Rubens, Huelt, translated by Vandain. 

Historical Guide, Grant Allen 

An Inland Voyage, R. Stevenson. 

DENMARK. 

Life in Denmark, Andersen. 
Denmark, Taylor. 

ICELAND AND GREENLAND. 

Iceland, Kneeland. 

Iceland, Baring Gould. 

Iceland Lock. 

By Fell & Fjord, Iceland, Oswald, 

The Children of the Cold, Schwatka. 

Greenland, Rink. 

Crossing Greenland, Nansen. 

Mrs. Peary's Arctic Journal. 

PERRY PICTURES. 

FLEMISH ART. 





rubens. 1577-1640. 


VAN DYCK. 1599-1641. 


630 


Portrait of Himself. 


646 


Children of Charles I 


631 


Head of a Girl. 


648 


Baby Stuart. 


632 


The Flight of Lot. 


651 


Repose in Egypt. 


633 


Holy Family 1 






636 


Descent from the Cross. 






VAN DYCK. 1599 1641 


ALMA-TADEMA. 1836. 


644 


Portrait of Himself. 


655 


Reading Homer. 


645 


Portrait of Charles I. 


656 


The Old Story. 



J\ Library of travel 

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CLOTH BOUND VOLUMES, 50 Cents. 

Each cloth bound volume contains from 160 to 184 pages, 
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The success of the first reader and the demands for another book of the 
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How the Baby Eskimo Lives. 
How to manage the Dog-sledge. 
Little Koohna at Work. 
Spearing Fish. 
Voyage on the Ice. 
Eskimo Stories and Folk-lore. 
The Northern Lights. 
Where the Eskimo Girl has her 

Pockets. 
The Eskimo House. 
Games of Eskimo Boys and Girls 
Hunting the Musk Ox. 
How Seals are Caught. 
The White Man's Iglo. 

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A Young' Man's 

Pr oblem s 

CONTENTS 

rt£*« Restless Years—Or, The Problem of a Pursuit in Life. 

&/ie College Widow- Or, The Problem of an Insincere Friend, 

V 

Having* a Purpose— Or, The Problem of Concentrated Effort. 

JBfie Value of HealtK— Or, The Problem of Vital Force. 
' j. 

iThrou^h Doubt to Faitn— Or, The Problem of a Truet 
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Conduct Toward Woman— Or, The Problem of Self Restraint, 

Doing As Others Do— Or, The Problem of Self Respect. 

Self Control— Or, The Problem of Resisting Temptation. 

Sfte Value of An Education— Or, The Problem of Trained 
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A Good Name— Or, The Problem of a Clean Record, 

\ .. 

:Self Approval vs. Money— Or, The Problem of Fair Dealing. 

Choosing His Life WorR Of, The Problem of One's Busi- 
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A Woman After His Own Heart— Or, The Problem of a 
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©75>« Supreme Aim— Or, The Problem of the Right Standard. 

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This is the geyser land of the world; the trout fishing cannot be beaten 
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For six cents I will send our "Wonderland 1902," which has a 
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CHAS. S. FILE, General Passenger Agent, 

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St. Paul, Minn. 



P. 0. M&r., '98. 



